OK, Last week I came up with the stupid idea of trying to see if carbon arrows would hold up to being split at the tip so you would be able to half on a trade point.  I got lots of suggestions but I wanted something very simple or it wasn't worth my time cause there are sooo many great arrow-broadhead combinations out there already.

End result (to some initial skepticism...mine included) was it did work with just a 3" piece of 1/4" hardwood dowel rod as my insert for strength along with a wrap around the shaft.  It successfully passed 5 shots into a full 1" piece of board at 10 yards  :cool:  

   

How Stupid Idea #2 Evolved:

1) For me making my own gear is very satisfying.  I really enjoy playing with Hot Steel at my forge...but making trade points by pounding and shaping the steel takes me as long as it does to forge out a knife.  Just too much work to be practical  :(  

2) In last weeks post the idea of lots of weight up front was really discussed.  That's great to have a really heavy arrow if you are a strong young buck...but unfortunately I'm an old looking down the other side of the hill gray buck   :rolleyes:  

I shoot 50# tops now and the arrow-broadhead combination that works best for me is a carbon shaft 28 1/2 " with 200-225 gr up front!

Finally Stupid Idea #2

Since that split carbon shaft worked so well.  I wanted to see if a carbon shaft with wood insert tapered to accept a broadhead directly would also prove to be as strong??

 

I glued the inserts in with a gel supper glue that I use to glue up my knife handles.  As I stated last week this glue seems to bond better than any epoxy I have used.  The 3" wood dowel insert weighs 20-25 gr almost the same as aluminum insert.  Then I shot the these arrows into that same 1" pine board with Nothing on the front of the arrow     They just bounced off the board without any mushrooming of the tip what-so-ever!

I then tapered them on my Woodchuck and glued on a couple of old Grizzlys.

 

 


Back to the board for another 5 shots.  Again perfect arrows!

I really miss not gluing my broadheads directly on my old wood arrows...But I also really like the strength and straightness of my carbon arrows. This set up is so simple to make and now my broadheads can be set at my preferred sight reference without coming unscrewed...Doc

Pretty cool Doc.

Jeff , I don't think retirement will be good on you brother

Man you just keep coming up with good ideas. Stop calling them stupid. I like them. Gary

Now that looks like a great idea.  Good job Doc.

I like your stupid ideas     , I think they are great, keep them coming!

   


I agree with sagebrush, they're not stupid!

Who knows what that big brain of yours will come up with when you are done curing animals.....impressive Jeff. I admire folks that say "why not?" instead of "why?". Push the envelope...then build a new one if it's not big enough to hold your ideas  

Now that to me, seems like a really sensible, logical idea! (Sorry Jeff, but it does mate!)

If you really want to go All-Traditional Carbon you could put wood dowel in other end with glue on nocks!  That would also eliminate them from popping off so easily    Doc

Jeff, I enjoyed the first thread regarding your idea.......this one is as cool.


BTW; I have the following saying on my March calendar:

"There Are No Stupid Questions, But There Are A LOT Of Inquisitive IDIOTS."  LOL

Pretty neat Jeff,bowdoc

That's a very good system. It's similar to the old Penetrator shafts, except they has small-daimeter full-length Bill Sweetland Forgewood dowels inside the carbon shaft. It gives excellent strength. With a hardwood, it's stronger than ANY of the screw-in systems.

Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow.

I like it!!  I really like it!!!

What carbons are you using for the two different styles?  Most interested in the tapered shaft idea.

Thanks,

James

Might be an easy fix the problem Dr Ashby has pointed out with carbons on the high FOC.   just need heavy broadheads now to make up the weight of the steel insert.  Nice stuff Doc!    

Bowdude,  I had thought of using a 1/4" steel or brass rod as my insert.  You could still taper the steel or brass with a grinder or woodchuck taper grinder.  That would significantly increase front end weight.  But for me, this set up of wood insert is my optimal weight.

bowhunterinchile,  I am using Beman ICS Hunter shafts.  You could use an carbon just need to match the inside diameter of carbon to your insert material...Doc

I like the idea alot.  You got me thinking, maybe some really high density wood like ipe or wenge to get the weight up.  I would most likly switch shaft to the 5/16" diameter carbons, as I don´t think there is enough meat with the axis style shafts.  I will have to switch to a heavier broadhead also, but would love to try so 190 Grizzly´s in a left bevel.  As I write this the wheels are turning, a carbon express hertiage 350 cut at 28 BOP with the hardwood insert and a El Grande.

James

Doc,

You don't seem that old to me.

Mitch

Funny Mitch, as you're two wind mills ahead of me...Doc