Thanks Dr Ashby! Yes, those are attached using some Devcon 2-ton epoxy that you can buy at any Wal-mart. Normally those types of arrows have around 16% FOC and for cane arrows I can achieve just a tad more. Goin' to do better though!   .-ART B

Cool! I would also second the idea of footing with aluminum an inch or two of 2117 works on Gold tip xt 35-55. Don't know what size on heavy spined carbons. Also could use brass inserts with slow dry epoxy to shore thing up.
Dudester

Thank you, Art. I've never tried Devcon 2-ton. Will have to see if I can get any in Oz. Can't take any back on the plane and, as wierd as it seems, the Aussies don't have Wal-Mart yet!

When are you planning to kill something big with those? GET PHOTOS for show and tell, PLEASE!!

Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow

Very nice work,really beautiful...bowdoc

Thank you, Art.  Those are absolutely beautiful.

Stan

Those are some nice looking heads guys! Well done!    

Thanks guys, glad you like 'em!

Oh, I didn't make those for my own use Dr. Ashby, they're awful long for my little ol' short 24" draw length, LOL! Yeah, I got pics, but don't want to hi-jack this thread anymore then I already have. Can send you some private mail if you like.-ART B

Great!      I guess I'll be building my own broad heads now.      Thanks Tippit and Art for setting the bar so high   :rolleyes:  and for getting the juices flowing.  Now where did I put those old saw blades....

-Brett

P.S.  Really, thanks guys for posting your excellent work.  It is both awe inspiring and thought provoking.

oops. I'm sorry,I have just looked back in on this thread, and it appears I hijacked Tippit's thread a little with my statement about shooting scapulas.

Sorry Doc.

SteveB,
I hunt in Georgia. Deer in GA when they get big, like say a 6 year old buck, weigh 130 -150 lbs. I shoot LOTS OF DOES, which average 90 lbs- we get 12 tags a year- I never shoot bucks unless they are monsters (for us) and those I do not shoot in the scapula.

My context is I hunt in an urban deer hunting program in metro Atlanta that I started in 1999, and in South Carolina where I hunt pigs that get to 450 and 500 lbs with shields 2 and 3 inches thick, but the deer may get to 100 lbs. Not your average bowhunter in that I take probably 50 hogs a year, and between 10 and 20 deer a year (South Carolina is no limit hunting)and guide others to almost that many kills.

In Atlanta we have 45 to 50 hunters in our program, and operate inside housing developments, golf courses, etc...where stealth, as much as taking deer is generally required by the landowner. They don't want anyone to know we are doing the job.

So deer running around with arrows in them is a no-no. Most of our hunters are compounders- I do not have any of them taking shots as I do.

My setup is the same as it has been the last 25 years, since I read the Natal Study Ed did back in the mid eighties I think...heavy recurves and longbows shooting heavy arrows...tipped wih grizzly 190 and grizzly 160 heads. total arrow weight is well over 10 grains per lb of draw...example....one bow is 64 lbs at 28, FF string recurve...and arrows are 725 grains. In carbons nearly half the weight is in the tip end...they're high FOC

I shoot through the scapula, NOT the shoulder knuckle. If I am on the ground I don't take that shot, because there's too great a chance you wouldn't get lungs- if in a treestand, obviously you can only shoot through ONE scapula but that is my target..I don't shoot out to 40 yards and beyond like you see on TV...I get the deer in close...10 yards from the tree or less- and if you want a LOW exit wound its one of the best places to hit a deer because the arrow will exit very low. Low equals good bloodtrails, and if the deer is broadside I have a decent chance of hitting the OPPOSITE leg bone,which is my 'point of aim' for the exit...I don't actually aim AT the scapula..I am through it to the point I want my arrow to LEAVE the animal..and that is the offside leg bone and I often break that as well.

If you are using replaceable blade broadheads, or don't know how to sharpen a broadhead, or use double bevel heads for that matter, you probably ought not to try what I do. As a matter of fact, I don't recommend this to anyone- I'm just telling you what I do.

Ray - that context certainley puts a different look to it and clears a lot of issues.
Thanks
Steve

Art B, Your heads look very nice!  Tell me more about your trade points.

What type of steel?
Are they quenched & tempered?
What is the weight?
How do the points hold up shot into something hard...bending or breaking of point?

Ray, No apology needed my friend.  This is great getting all this community information!  Doc

Cool Thread!

One old broadhead I always thought was a good idea.The Bear Archery Giant.It was a massive huge bear razorhead designed by Fred and handed out to Glenn,Dick and some other guy's up on the delta(they are rare).Whats interesting about the giant though was Fred designed the blade to be thicker at the tip.I believe somewhere around .052 on the tip and .030 at the back.All weight foward on the blade itself.I tried makeing a few blades myself that are tapperd from .050-.030 Starrett HS-C the tips are almost bomb proof and are not heat treated.Wish I had more time to work on them,but here's some unfinished models...bowdoc

I like to make my trades from the old "fire tooth" circular saw blades when I can find 'em Tippit. Or any of the older blades that have high quality steel. A lot of the blades today don't have any carbon content so watch out for those.

I don't do any heating or tempering because I take my time and cut 'em out with a hacksaw. I know what some of you all are thinking ,man, that's a lot of work! Well, not really. With the right hacksaw blade it's pretty straight forth. Go to a NAPA Auto store and ask for their best Bi-metal hacksaw blade (white coating). They have the only hacksaw blades that I've found that will even touch these good circular saw blades.

One of the reasons I use the tangless system is that I can get an overall larger blade with the same weight vs the tanged system. Believe me, my arrows have been shot into rock, trees, boards, mine belts and game. Yes, a couple were damaged, but not beyond repair. Come to think of it, both of those heads had tangs and bent at the shoulders (I now use a longer ferrule to prevent this).

This tangless system I use is fairly simple as well. I allow an additional 1 1/2" to the shaft for the ferrule and then point taper with my hand tool set to the depth of 1". Then I kerf the point taper that 1" to receive the blade's body and then groove the sides (1/32" deep) of the shaft for the length of 1/2" for the sides of the notch to slide into. This prevents any back and forth or lateral movement. Then I add my thread wrap behind the blade before epoxing.

Normal range of weight ranges from about 130-150gr for my heads. Epoxy and footing can add another 50 or so grains. -ART B

ttt for some awesome home made broadheads