3Rivers Archery




The Trad Gang Digital Market














Contribute to Trad Gang and Access the Classifieds!

Become a Trad Gang Sponsor!

Traditional Archery for Bowhunters




RIGHT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

LEFT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

TRAD GANG CLASSIFIEDS ACCESS


Grizzly Knock Off + Stupid Idea---> Trial Tests In!!

Started by tippit, March 07, 2008, 03:22:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Dr. Ed Ashby

Thanks Doc. Really looking forward to seeing how it goes!

Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow

JC

Awwwww yeah! Tippit, looks like we got some sperimentin to do at Quebec Quest II!

So, how does a feller go about getting one of these dreaded "pine pulverisers"? I have some unruly cedars that need to be taken out.  :saywhat:
"Being there was good enough..." Charlie Lamb reflecting on a hunt
TGMM Brotherhood of the Bow

hickstick

jeff...not to derail the main purpose if the thread...but what are you useing to mark your mark...etch? stamp?  chisel?  just wonderin...
Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.

tippit

JC, I'll have some made up.  Thought Eric might like to try one with his home made arrows too.

hickstick, I stamp it hot.

 
TGMM Family of the Bow
VP of Consumption MK,LLC

d. ward

Hey Jeff I think Eric's arrows are made of wood......Just kidding,see ya real soon.bowdoc

bowdude

Tippit - I'm not much of a steel man.  Would 4130 be too hard or soft for making a blade like that?  Your experiment interests me as I rarely lose broadheads anymore and making up a half dozen welded on to those steel inserts might last me a while.  (I would want screw ins.) Any  idea if they would gas weld, maybe you have done it? I have welded a lot of 4130 and have some, but not much else.

Steve

tippit

Steve, I'm sure welding would work.  What you have to do once they are finished is:
1. Quench them to harden

2. Temper they to get an edge that is soft enough to sharpen but hard enough to keep the edge.

Go over to the Hunting Knife forum and ask about the properties of 4130 steel.  Mine are made from 1080 high carbon steel and I tempered them a little softer than I'd usually do for a knife...thus easier to sharpen and re-touch the blade.  With a knife I'm looking to keep the edge as long as possible but with a broadhead it's a one time use before re-sharpening.  Hopefully that makes sense  "[dntthnk]"  Doc
TGMM Family of the Bow
VP of Consumption MK,LLC

tippit

Back to Woody's question about side profile of the shaft attachment to the broadhead.

This is the head for the test:

 

 

This morning I re-ground the attachment area.  I think this will help quite a bit with penetration...Doc

 

 
TGMM Family of the Bow
VP of Consumption MK,LLC

d. ward

W hat about this type broadhead for a wood arrow Jeff...... 1941 T.B.Chandler

tippit

bowdoc, That's almost a Grizzly right there!  Compare the profile with my knock-off Grizzly, a Grizzly, and T.B. Chandler...very close.  Guess there ain't anything new to invent!  If you look real close T.B. even has a single bevel on his  :bigsmyl:  Doc

 
TGMM Family of the Bow
VP of Consumption MK,LLC

Shaun

I like the tie on bumps on the Chandler tine. Looks like they extend past the shaft diameter. May have to try some of these from old circular saw blades.

d. ward

Yes it was a great head but that TB was nothing in comparison to your head.Those notches were a bit larger then the shaft.Once wrapped they seemed to hold OK,but were known for flipping sideways sometimes as the wrapping would break on inpact...I like yours way better....Yes I believe Chandler shipped them double egde single or you put your own edge on. see ya real soon..bowdoc

tippit

Shaun,  After seeing what epoxy did to hold in Woody's points especially when he was trying to remove a point from a broken shaft.  I think everything else is window dressing.  The halfing wrap on the carbon is more to give it lateral strength.  But I'd bet epoxy on wood shafts would be as strong without the wrap.  JMO...Jeff
TGMM Family of the Bow
VP of Consumption MK,LLC

d. ward

I agree with Jeff some good epoxy works probley better then anything else.Without hijacking Jeff's thread,here is a pic of a ferrule I glued to a broadhead I made...I used gel super glue on it.This head had taken 50 shots into a 3/4" treated plywood....and will be heading for Que'bec this spring..The epoxys and super bonder are pretty strong for 10-12 shots at least .....bowdoc

Art B

Great read guys! Love those trade points myself! Been making and using 'em for ten years now. Great thing about making 'em yourself is that you choose their final weight.

I use a tangless system with epoxy to secure my heads. Very satisfied with their results over the years. -ART B

Dr. Ed Ashby

As per PM, here it is. ttt

Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow

StanM

Art B,

How about you post some pics of your trade points.  By far the best I've seen.

Stan

Caddo

Very Nice, Doc!  :thumbsup:  

You guys with all that talent sure are impressive!  :clapper:  

LD
"If your gonna kick a tiger in the butt, you better have a plan for dealing with his teeth!

Art B

Here's a few unfinished and finished trade points for you Stan. Some foreshafted cane and Zebra wood footed sourwood shoot arrows.-ART B

 




Dr. Ed Ashby

Drop dead gorgeous, Art. You've achieved great 'ferrule profile'. Is that an epoxy you've used to attach them? Looks like it makes a really smooth transition into the blade-face. Could you tell me the FOC of both arrows?
 :clapper:  

Ed
TGMM Family of the Bow


Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement
Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©