Hello,
I have a 26" draw using a 55lb at 28" recurve.Shooting 27.5" Beman 400's shooting off to the point right knock left about a foot with 100 grain tips. I increased tips to 125 and seen some improvement. More improvemnt with 145 gr but still hitting right about 6". I stripped featers off and cut off 1/4" from the shaft and put back in a 100gr point and shot point left knock right of target about 6-8" at 10 yards telling me now shaft is now to stiff. Increased tips again as before to 145gr and still shot point left knock right. I dont understand what happened. Any input appreciated.
Thank you
Danny J

Danny are you right handed? I think a 400 spine is too stiff to start cut to 27.5". Probably too stiff even longer unless you really load the front.You were probably bouncing off the riser getting a false reading all along.

It depends on your bow.How much center cut and what kind of string but a 500 spine around 30" with 125-150 should get you close.

If the 400's are all you have, try one full length or if you have to shoot a shorter arrow you will have to load the heck out of it.

I too think they are too stiff and too short if you are RH.I feel they are bouncing off the riser before they go through the paradox,I may be wrong.I draw 27" and had a used set of CX 45/60 that were 28" long and showing stiff.So I added more weight up front to try to weaken the spine.And the more weight I added to worse they shot.I think that were too short and bouncing of the riser when shot.They wouldn't tune no matter how much weight I added.It can be hard if not impossible tune a stiff carbon that is short even though it is longer then your draw length.I lighter spine or a longer arrow may be what you need.

Danny, I throw this comment in because I forget to do it, but catch myself after a few arrows when tuning in a bow (especially a longbow).  Anyway, make sure that you're holding the bow straight up & down when shooting the bareshafts.
Jerry

I shot some full length laminated birch today; with 190 field points; and they tailed left at 15 yards; and at 20. I drew back another half inch until the metal point was touching the back of the bow; and still the arrows tailed left.

I put feathers on them; and at 20 yards tapped them all together in a 3 inch group at 20 yards; and I am not worrying about bareshafting.

I shoot a longbow; 62 pounds at 27 inches; but I draw back to 30. The shafts I used were 70-75 pound spine.

I am not going to hunt without feathers.

Brian
I wouldn't worry about it either if the bareshafts will group with the fletched at 20 yards.If however they are a foot or more apart you will notice a difference in tuned and not tuned in penetration.It might not matter with the weight you're shooting but it might make a difference if your feathers are wet.

i too had alot of very confusing results bare shaft tuning.  turns out my nocks were way too tight on the string - filed them down, problem solved.  also, i always shoot at least 4 arrows at a time - same length, same point weight.  if i have one flier, then i know the problem is with my form or one or more of the other factors listed in the above posts.

Thanks guys for the comments and ideas. Sometimes you cant see the forest thru the trees. I am right handed. This bow is a 2007 58" Massasauga recurve I bought new with no information on it. It is cut past center and appears to be very simular to my SR Swift riser. Here is what solved my problems using some common sense and some of your ideas.
1. increased brace gradually from 7" to 8"
2. ended up using 28" 2016 gamegetters with 125 gr.
3. raised knock height from 3/8" to 1/2"
4. This bow wants 0 cant. I would imagine that is from being cut past center.

This bow is now accurately shooting darts. Thanks for all of your help.
Danny J