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wooden dowel instead of weight tubes?

Started by MikeP in WV, December 28, 2007, 09:19:00 AM

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MikeP in WV

Anybody ever used wooden dowels for added weight in carbons or aluminums instead of 3Rivers plastic weight tubes?  I noticed some in a craft store while Christmas shopping and they were in the 5/16" size, which is the size of the tubes.  Also, how much would a 5/16" wooden dowel weigh anyway?
Thanks,
MP

Shape Shifter

I have used them. It definitely increases the spine and over weight of the arrow. Some of my  bows love them and the others don't. It made the arrow too stiff and over spined so I had to  really increase my head weight to get them to fly true.
"Effort only fully releases its rewards after a person refuses to quit"

Taiga Recurve

I have used wooden dowels in my Gold Tips and have had really good luck with them.
"Target archery is seeing how far away you can get and still hit the bull's eye.
Bowhunting is seeing how close you can get and never miss your mark!"

Taiga Recurve

Let me rephrase my post, I have put 6" of wooden dowel right behind my insert to have more weight forward on my arrows.
"Target archery is seeing how far away you can get and still hit the bull's eye.
Bowhunting is seeing how close you can get and never miss your mark!"

Hi Mike,

Big Al Smith and Bill Mason both used wooden dowels in their shafts when they went to Africa.  They got along just fine.  

I don't have any idea what 5/16ths dowels weigh, but I've never been bashful about loading up the front of carbon arrows.  I regularly use 200 to 250 grains up front.  I know folks who get heavier spined shafts and load the front even more.

Bowspirit

Mike,
The 5/16" weight tubes mean they fit inside a 5/16" o.d. shaft. In other words, the 5/16" weight tubes are in fact a good deal smaller in diameter than a 5/16" wooden dowel.
If you do load a dowel in one of your arrows, and it's a standard 5/16" carbon, you'd have to use a 1/4" dowel for it to fit inside...
"I read somewhere of how important it is in life, not necessarily to be strong, but to feel strong. To measure yourself at least once."
               -Alexander Supertramp

"Shoot this for me."
               -Chuck Nelson

JBiorn


MikeP in WV

JBiorn,
I've thought about that but I just got a dozen 55/75 Gold Tip Traditionals because I like the durability of carbons (I miss too much) but as you know, their too light.  I have 2 MH takedowns, 1 at 55lbs and the other at 70lbs.  I'm trying to fit up these GT traditionals to work in either bow.
MP

MikeP in WV

I've also read on stickbow.com about guys using plastic weedeater string in the same fashion.  The guy said that one of the standards, .080 I think, weighed about 24 grains per 28" piece.  Has anyone done any studies with weedeater string, either .080 or .095?  It would seem like a pretty easy way to add weight...thoughts?

lt-m-grow

I used weedeater string when I went out west elk hunting last year.  I put in three pieces the full length of the arrow.   It increased the arrow weight by almost 100 grains exactly.  

It didn't seem to change the spine (I read that it wouldn't and that is why I used it).  The extra arrows in the quiver rattled some at each shot, something that would concern me whitetail hunting ala jumping the string.

The other downside is when I hit a stump just right, it would blow the nock out and the green string would go flying.  The first time it happend I wasn't sure what I hit inside the old stump until I walked up there.  It is scary to see dead weedeater string high in the moutains ya know.

Anyway, it easy and cheap though.  However, I like the weight so much I added it upfront via brass inserts and heavier broadheads instead of the string.  That also increase my FOC per the Ashby report suggestion.

FJTOYMAN

I went away from the weedeater sting because of the noise. I hate it, the whole quiver would rattle. I've started using rope. Its quite and preatty consistent in wt. I can add 70 grns to my axis arrows and not affect the spine.

MikeP in WV

Rope...now that's something I hadn't thought about.  I guess the 1/4" cotton ropes would add some nice weight, not rattle, and wouldn't blow the nocks off either. Great suggestion FTJoyman!  Thanks for your help.
MP

BobCo 1965

I'm going to have to try the rope idea also. Seems to make sense.

JRY309

The inside diameter of a GT is .246 and a 5/16" wooden dowel if a true 5/16" would be .250 outside diameter.You would have to sand the whole dowel down some and would most likely affect the spine of the arrow.Weight tubes will affect the spine alittle if any at all,they are very flexible and hollow.

DanDaMan

Why not just use 100 grain brass inserts?
Horne Mountain bow 60in 57@29
Horne Combo Hunter Longbow 64in 59@28
Dryad Orion Longbow  60in 60@28
Hoots 54in 48@28

dino

"The most demanding thing you can ask of a piece of wood is for it to become an arrow shaft. You reduce it to the smallest of dimension yet ask it to remain it's strongest, straightest and most durable." Bill Sweetland

PA stickbow boy

I loaded my full length 55/75 XT Hunter's w/ 3/16 nylon rope.  I gained about 100 grains w/ no rattle.  I also used the 50 grain brass inserts up front.  They shoot real good out of my Silvertip at 58# @28" but out of my Sheepeater Spirit they seem to fly really awkward at like 20 yards or farther.  The Sheepeater has like a longbow riser where I shoot off a leather flap rest.  But I do like the rope thing.
Keep the sun at your back and the wind in your face.

PA stickbow boy

oh forgot!  the Sheepeater is 63# @ 28"... they fly ok till like 15-17 yards but after that you really notice the erratic flight

hopefully we both can get some answers haha
Keep the sun at your back and the wind in your face.


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