I think I read somewhere about a takedown wood arrow. I was wondering if anyone could tell me about those? And wondering if someone has played with making a takedown carbon arrow?
Doug

A follow I know lives in a super rainy area and he has arrows that are takedown. It is a 12" wooden fletched area that can be stored away from the elements in a waterproof pouch, and then pulled out and slid partly inside an aluminum shaft that is 24" long and tipped with a broadhead. The resulting arrow is about 30"long and friction fitted together. He is a very skilled hunter and this system works for him.

3Rivers sells an arrow stretcher. It works well  when you thought the arrow was flying perfect then stiffens up on ya.  You can just stretch her back out and weaken that spine.  Good to go.

In 05 I shot a couple of tournaments with takedown wood shafts I made up in a moment of inspiration , fitted with a 21;17 alloy shaft section friction fitted for 2 " on the point end and glued 2" for the fletch end . The join was in the centre of the shaft . Had 160 grain points for FOC  high cut 4 " parabolic feathers and the arrows flew perfectly . In one shoot I made the top 10 barebow shootout , should have seen the crowds face when I got eliminated . I unstrung my bow fitted with a marine hatch hinge , folded her in half stuck it in my quiver and pulled the arrows apart and put it in with my bow . The looks on the compounders faces made my year .

Years ago, I used to cut aluminum's in half and use a a smaller diameter section of aluminum shaft to put them back together.  Just used hot melt glue.  They are a little stiffer but worked great and cheap way to use all your bent aluminum arrows.  Just for kicks I tried multiple sections, really adds weight and strength to shaft...Doc

I made several aluminum t/d arrows that fly true.  I used 2117's cut in center fitted together with a 4 inch piece of a carbon shaft.  I also made some using 2213 shafts fitted together with a 4 inch section of 2018.  I glue in one side and friction fit the other.  Using these t/d arrows with a t/d 3 piece recurve you can put it all in a small bag and be completely in the "stealth mode" when traveling.

Joe Skipp has pictures I think. If I remember correctly it was a screw together adapter for wooden shafts.

Try and stay away from open glue and solvents a takedown arrow ? whats the point !

Hey Gord,
You might be right, maybe I should stay away from the holiday cheer as well ! The reasoning is, I hate quivers when hunting, all kinds of quivers, and I think I have tried most. I never shoot many arrows when big game hunting, and would like to keep one on the bow, and the rest in my pack, dry, out of the way, out of the brush, you get the point. A guy can always dream...right? I'm thinking a screw in adapter for carbons, just not sure I have the ***** to test them.
Doug

Im sorry would not try and get in the way of guys Dream  why not dream a new Quiver for you to love

Gordon,

The point is others hunt and travel differently than you. Just because you don't see a use doesn't mean there isn't one.

I made set of T/D arrows for a guy 15 years ago because he travelled everywhere on his motorcycle. He needed something to fit in his secured saddlebags.

But I guess by your logic why build a T/D bow?


BTW- I build mine like Trooper but only with AL portions at the splice

Thanks for the responses.

Dan or Trooper, just wondering if you have had many splice failures? Does the splice effect spine much? Thanks again.

Gordon,

I have always referred to it as a "Quiver Problem" the reality is it is an arrow problem(in my mind). Most Quivers do as advertised, hold arrows.....Doug

I have a buddy who used to work for Paul at Screaming Eagle in the good ol days here in Missoula...he said some fella that used to come in there gave him some.  I checked em out...Cedar (I think) joined in the middle by a very nice friction fitted piece of aluminum.  The outer diameter of the two materials and the fit were so perfect, you could scarcely tell there was a seam if you ran your fingers down the shaft.  Very cool!
-Rob

Anyone have any pics of these t/d arrows??I'd really like to see the transition/connection point.

wouldn't that be like footing the wood'n shaft with Alum, So you could use screw-in points?

I have seen some outstanding ones that Bob Burton had at a PBS gathering but I don't recall the details other than they were wood.

There is a shoulder cut in the wood shafting at the connection point the exact wall thickness of the aluminum, so that all will be flush on the surface when assembled.  I'll see if Steve can dig those shafts out for a photo sometime in the next few days.
-Rob

I haven't tried them myself but I can really see the advantage of a T/D arrow on a backpack, horseback or Mt. lion hunt. The same goes for a two piece bow which I plan on having before I go on any of my next hunts like this.

Years ago, A man from my church who hunted all over the world and had a bow and arrows made up for him to go on a hound hunt for cougar.  He had the takedown longbow (the first one I ever saw) The arrows were aluminum and had fittings in the tow sections, that screwed together.  The sections were not the same length, was told that it made a difference with the spine and the paradox.  

The whole kit was designed to fit into the back quiver. Evernt he quiver was special, it had a flap over it that enclosed the bow, arrows.  THe idea was to go over hill and dale, mountain and everywhere chasing the dogs and the lion, and when you got there, you assembled the kit and had a bow and arrows.

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