On modern custom receives the norm is cut to center or slightly past center. I always assumed that keeping the arrow close that is desirable.
I'm finding less finicky tuning over a wider variety of shafts after adding a spacer.
On a Pittsley which is cut past center I added about 1/8-3/16 spacer and it really makes an nicer shooting bow and one that responds easily to tuning.
Do most of you put in a spacer or use it cut all the way over?

Thanks,
Tedd

I try not to do anything at all to the bow, but, rather, I try to make changes to the arrow to get the proper match up. None of my bows are cut to center, though.

I shoot skinny arrows and build out the side plate on bows cut past enter so the arrow point is left of the string (I'm right handed) when nocked, regardless of what arrow diameter I shoot.

I usually don't have to build out the side plate on bows cut to center, which, with some sort of side plate, will also place the point of the arrow left of the bow string when the arrow is nocked.

To clarify, I'm not unfamiliar with building out a side plate. My default was always to try to match an arrow to the full cut.

Orion, that sounds like a good formula.

Side plate adjustments are for tuning arrows to the specific bow.

I can't cut my arrows, too long of draw, I've added a spacer to tune and liked the results, but I'd prefer not to have too. If my strike plate falls off on a hunt, I don't want to have to try and replicate the proper thickness spacer in the field. Always have a precut piece of Velcro at least in my bow case if not in my backpack. Maybe some double sided foam tape like you use to mount topper shells on a pickup would might work though, although that stuff really sticks, hopefully it wouldn't pull the finish off

Tedd:  With a finger release, I've always found that the arrow point just left of the string, or perhaps bisected by the string for a right handed shooter is about right.  

If a bow is cut way past center, the only alternative is to build out the side plate because the arrow might be pointing right of the bowstring, or bisected on the right side of the string when on the shelf. With a finger release, this just doesn't result in a clean flying arrow regardless of how stiff it is.

Even the wheel shooters with a mechanical release move the cushion plunger at least far enough so the string bi-sects the arrow dead center when it's on the shelf..

Thanks for the responses.
Old Goat, I agree, simple and nothing to fail is desirable, and duplicating your spaced out side plate is critical. I have used all the usual under a side plate over the years.  I did recently find something that seems to work really well for a spacer under a side plate and is easy to duplicate. I had a role of double sided tape from true value for some other project. 2 pcs of it make about an 1/8". bump. it is rubberized but firm. Easy to stick in place before applying the side plate.