I have a Dan Toelke Super D that is 68" 50@28. I draw this bow around 29.25-29.5. This how is cut very close to center.
I want to get tapered shafts. I am not sure if I should get 60-65 or 65-70 spine shafts that would be 30". I would most likely use 125 grain tips. I also would like to know who would be the best option to buy these shafts from. When it comes to shaft material I don't know exactly what I want either. Thinking something a little heavier and more durable than cedar.
Open to options.

contact steve or bob @surewood shafts.  they can fix you up with premium doug fir. sponsors here. do it all from the harvesting of the wood to the finished shaft. meticulous attention to detail.
58

Hi,

I have Big Jim Buffalo 66 inches and 51@28 ( 54/55@ my draw 29,25), I use a 65/70 # surewood cut at 30,50 inch and 125 gr point and broadhead, my arrow is perfect for my longbow !
Try this set up  

You are going to need almost 32 inch with a broad head.

I would contact a vendor, Have dealt with quit a few. They can help you. Don't be afraid to call.
This is there business. And they are good at it.

One on the first places I called was Raptor  http://www.raptorarchery.com/.  I got lucky. Very good. That was 12 years ago.  

 Rich K

60-65 and they will fly great with a 125 grain head IME with Toelke bows. Now if you shoot really heavy shafts (12-14 gpp) then bump that up to 65-70 and go with a heavier head (150-160) for better FOC and a bit quicker paradox recovery from my experiences with heavy shafting. Just sent Dan some fir and larch I made that weigh 700+ grains with 160 grain head. 30 1/2 BOP.  IRCC he is 29 3/4 and 52#. Said they fly great and group really tight.

Call Paul Jalon at Elite arrows. He will get you set right up.

Surewood!!!!!!!
Tough and STRAIGHT

For myself with LB that are not cut to center under spined arrows always worked great.

I have shot deer with my homemade hop hornbeam shafts (very heavy; heavier than hickory and was  used by native peoples of my area...had a buck roll on one when he went down and it didn't break!),  birch (one of my favorites and a favorite of ol' time archers like Art Young I believe), cedar (kills deer ok but i am always snapping them when stump shooting), and Douglas fir.  I have been very very happy with the  surewood shafts and the service was as good as you can get!  I have only used wood shafts and mostly made my own because I am picky about the quality...Surewood shafts take care of all that for you and give you super great product. Had a pass through with my 8 point this fall with them...

Dan

all good arrow makers out there but
elite arrows will send you a test kit of 3 arrows, fletched for broadhead tuning or ask for unfletched for field point tuning,,,,no more guess work and when you get his finished arrows they will fly like carbons.

QuoteOriginally posted by curlis:
Call Paul Jalon at Elite arrows. He will get you set right up.

I second that. Paul is the best!

When I was making custom arrows I liked white birch the best. They are hefty but not overly heavy, easy to work with regular hand tools, stay straight and are generally as tough as any other hardwood I used  with the exception of maple and ash. With your set up and 125 grain heads 70-75 is what I would suggest.

When I was making custom arrows I liked with birch the best. They are hefty but not overly heavy, easy to work with regular hand tools, stay straight and are generally as tough as any other hardwood I used  with the exception of maple and ash. With your set up and 125 grain heads 70-75 is what I would suggest.

Surewood shafts dougfir ...FIRST CLASS!!

I have a 64" Liberty Chief. 50#@28". My draw is about 27.5" with this bow. If I don't get full extension my 65/70 spined Surewoods are too stiff. 60/65 seems better to me for my needs. Both with 160 grns heads.

You'll need a 65-70. It won't be stiff on your bow. At most you'll cut off 3/4" from a raw shaft prior to taper.