I was wondering about tuning different draw weight bows all to the same arrows by simply building up the strike plate on the heavier bows.  Has anybody done this?  Seems to be the most economical thing to do.  

I am currently shooting a 50 lb bow with ease.  Tried out a 55 lb that actually felt no harder to shoot.  I am thinking about getting a heavier bow.  Maybe 60-70 lbs.  I was wondering if I had different weight bows if I could, instead of making new arrows to fit the bow, just tune the strike plate to the arrows I already have.  Building the strike plate out on the heavier bows should save me quite a bit in arrow building.  I could maybe even get a lighter bow cut past center.

I don't have much experience with changing side plate material, but you can definitely tune with your string/silencer combination.  Heavier string/silencers for the heavy bow, a lighter, hotter string for the lighter draw weight bow.

Just make sure your arrows are heavy enough for the higher DW.

Building the sight plate out as you go to heavier weight is the wrong way to go.  Building the sight plate out requires a softer spine.  When you go up in weight, you need a stiffer spine, or you need to thin the strike plate.

That being said, you should be able to shoot the same arrows in bows that are at least 5# difference in draw weight.  Most bows will shoot a range of spines quite well.

Side plate thickness is a very viable method of adjustment.  Easy and it works.

Buying a heavier bow, what a more perfect reason to build a new set of arrows to match the bow! Thats what i would do but i enjoy building my woodies!!!

Nobody mentioned it, but I'd go slow on jumping that large a jump in bow weight...

Lots depends on the bow, it's design, but 10# is a lot and 20# is huge, but to each his own...

I do. I bought a bunch of 1916s a few years ago and try to tune everything to shoot them cut to 29".  I use several methods, side plate thickness, string material, strands, and silencers, point weights, etc.
Of course, the bows are all within 6# of each other in draw weight, but some are recurves cut past center and some are ASLs.

Well I have three bows that shoot the same arrow . One is a 43# RD longbow , one is a 47# recurve and the other is a 55# RD longbow .
Now the 43#er is center shot , the recurve is too but just by eyeball it might be just a smidge shy of full center shot . The 55# RD longbow is very obvious that it's not center shot .
My conclusion is , I think you have an idea that is worth playing with .
I'm going to add that the 55# RD longbow is my most accurate shooter for me .
Whitch brings up another question , what I so important about being center shot ?

QuoteOriginally posted by Graps:
Whitch brings up another question , what I so important about being center shot ?

Important?  Prolly nothing, other then it does help a body know where to start with spine.  The more center shot or center cut the riser, the stiffer shaft is needed.  In my world view, that's because the string is putting a lot more retained energy into a straight kick in the butt of the arrow without it having to bend around the riser.

Years back, I found some shafts we were playing with and out of several bows that were right at 50# draw at our draw length (same for all us) we shot those arrows "weak".  Along comes a guy from W. VA and has a long bow, cut IBO legal at 1/8" SHY of center and it was mid 60# draw...those same arrows shot STIFF for him.

Side plate appears to have as much of more affect on spine as draw weight... IMO & personal experience... fwiw.

I have never really set out to do this, but I have had it work out that way several times. I have several Hill style bows that can use the same arrows, even though they are several pounds different in draw weights. I don't tinker with the bow just to make it shoot a specific arrow, though.