For the guys that shoot the High FOC arrows like GT's with heavy inserts, when tuning, do you just not glue the inserts in and shoot while cutting the shaft off until proper flight is obtained? If this is what you do then how do you keep the inserts from pulling out in a broadhead target when tuning for broadheads? Just wondering how to do this...
thanks, Rick

bare shaft tune with field points and cut from the nock end

u sneaky devil you  

I'm a little more anal so I see what people on here and the Widow Wall are getting results with and cut the same off both ends then start tuning on the point end with a field tip and reg hot melt glue. When I get it bare shaft tuned I then glue in with Bohning Ferr-L-Tite. The reason I take off both ends is to get the straightness closer to where most manufacturers measure their straightness, in the center of the bare shaft.

12ringman wins the prize...the straightest part of the shaft is ALWAYS the center portion.  Use the hotmelt and cut from both ends until you reach the spine you need.

Also, cut in VERY small amounts.  Shaft length has a much greater effect on spine than adding point weight.  Once they're cut...you can never go back.

Joe

I use the gold tip trads and add wieght with the "Gold tip wieght system" weights.  Little weights screwed in from the knock end with a really long allen wrench.

How much heat can a GT shaft take--do you actually heat the shaft or just the insert when using the hot glue?
thanks, Rick

Never heat the shaft directly, when I remove hotmelted inserts from carbon shafts, I screw an aluminum broadhead adaptor in and heat that and only just enough to loosen it. You can use a fieldpoint or steel adaptor too, they just transfer the heat as fast.