I'm probably the only guy ever to have a kme sharpener and not think it's just the greatest thing. I really wanted it to do a good job and worked with it for days but never got an edge what I would call sharp. I just use a file to get a bur then strop on an old belt with polishing compound. I can get heads like zwickey magnus and grizzly crazy don't wanna touch it sharp that way. Plus it's faster. Just my thoughts. I'm sure most will disagree

I am by no means an expert with KME or any other sharpening system. One thing that has worked for me is using less pressure than I originally thought was needed. On dull edges, I do use fairly heavy pressure with the coarse stone, but a lighter touch on medium and fine stones seems to polish the edge better. Developing consistency is important in order to keep the angle correct and to make sure the entire cutting edge is pulled over the stones. This would be true for any type sharpening system, I think. For stropping, I use a leather strop that is about 150 years old that I got from my grandfather's shoe shop. It gives a final polish to the edge.

I am not sure what really constitutes "scary" sharp. Once I get an edge that will easily shave hair, I stop. That is about as sharp as I can really prove, anyway. To keep going seems to be counter productive. It is still quite a bit of work for me to get my arrows ready to hunt. Fortunately, I enjoy sharpening stuff - I just wish I was better at it.

The beauty of the KME is that it keeps a very consistent angle.That's a big deal for the sharpening challenged.A second big plus is that it is adjustable for angle to match any blade.Once that bevel is trued up and fitting the flat stone,any subsequent touch ups or sharpening take little time an remove a minimum of steel.That is due to the angle being repeatable.

The OP's problem is that the Delta's edge isn't dead straight,so doesn't contact a flat stone,full length.When the Delta came out,most broadheads were built that way,none were hunt ready and most used files to sharpen them so didn't care if the edges were straight or slightly concave.

If a person takes the time to get the Delta's edge fitting the flat stone,it can be sharpened very easily on the KME,and all touch ups will be a breeze.

Again,it is well worth your time to call Ron if you have any questions.I personally have never had broadheads so sharp since learning to use the KME's.Good luck.

As mentioned earlier, the problem is not with the KME it's the broadhead you are attempting to sharpen with it.
Glue a piece of 150 grit Emory cloth to a Pringles can and use that for your stone. It will allow you to follow the concave edge of the Delta.

If you straighten the edge to match a flat stone you will end up with a 1 1/4" wide Delta instead of 1 3/8".

Don't use a finer grit until the coarse grit give you an edge that will cut hair.

Great advice charlie, going to give that a try.

Ahh,makes sense.

i just tryed the vpas in the kme and wow scary sharp i think im going with these heads they fly great and easy to sharpen

I like Mr Lamb's advice-- should be a low cost solution for you.  I have a KME broadhead sharpener and it works great on straight profile heads like Grizzlies and Eskimos.  I would not trade mine for anything.  Ron at KME is a great guy and walked my sharpening challenged self into razor edge territory.  The absolute key is to use a very course stone when developing the edge for the first time and realize-- no burr means you're not ready for fine honing--get the burr and your hard work is over.  As someone said, once you get a good edge touching them up is easy.

I had trouble with Deltas until I discovered extra-coarse diamond stones. KME sells a DMT dual grit stone for a decent price. It is well worth it.

how do you establish the burr is it by rubbing it back and forth or just one way?

QuoteOriginally posted by nhbuck1:
how do you establish the burr is it by rubbing it back and forth or just one way?

Pushing back and forth at first to remove material, then only forward strokes after the initial angle has been established. Light pressure iis all you need at the point.

so u just need to push lightley forwar when going forward even on the coarse stone? ho light we talking?

Do yourself a favor and buy some diamond hones, amazing the difference!

The right process to use the KME is not hard, but it is not intuitive...Ron had to teach me things like others say.

Hard heads require good stones and consistent work.  Getting a wire with the coarsest grit is critical...then remove the wire  and use finer grit later..

lots of ways to skin a blade, so to speak, but using the right process is critical.

Call, leave a good number, and have a tablet handy to go over his tutoring and make notes!

KME is a good product but it comes with a steep price. Their price is fair considering all the metal in their device but many guys starting out would rather by heads than a way to sharpen them.

3Rivers archery now carries a more cost effective way to sharpen 2 blade heads both single and double bevel.

It costs about a third of the KME.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/stay-sharp-broadhead-sharpening-guide-fixed-blade.html

RG,

Till you buy quality stones with that gizmo, you have kicked the price back up.

Stones made a huge difference and KME is always looking for better quality and consistency stones for their kits.

I know the feeling man...The only way I can get ANY Zwickey really sharp is to finish them on glass. I use the edge of a glass door out of an old oven it's about 1/4" thick and slightly rounded. I'm not a sharpening expert by any stretch but I can take any Zwickey from way dull to shaving sharp by working through different grits of sandpaper with my KME then finish on the glass... The door glass in your car will work great too...Good luck! you'll get it.

ya i got them sharp now they take alot of work then i strop them on jeans very sharp

Maybe you should try a different way of sharpening . 20 minutes to sharpen a head is crazy you need to touch up your heads as the season goes on they will get dull from being in and out of your quiver.  I sharpen my heads in about 2 minutes using a file and a steel and they shave hair ! That includes Zwickeys ,Woodsmens, Snuffers or Razorheads the Razorheads scare me they get so sharp.

I think the majority of the time sharpening heads, knives, hawks, etc, is putting the initial edge on them. If you want a flat edge and the surface is concave, you must remove the entire edge down to the deepest part of the concavity.

Once you've done that, assuming you use the same method to re-sharpen, it should only take a couple of strokes (unless you hit a stone, of course   :(   )