Heating up broadheads for woodies-How hot is too hot?

longbow fanatic 1 · July 15, 2016, 05:42:00 PM

I've been shooting wood arrows this summer and just began setting up some broadheads. It was recommended to me that heat up the tips to burn off the oils within the tip/broadheads. Ive done this with field tips, but don't have much experience with heating up broadheads. I bought some Woodman broadheads and heated the heads w/a torch, but how much heat is too much. I notice a little discoloration on the first BH I heated. How do I know if I've heated the BH too much?

TKO · July 15, 2016, 06:01:00 PM

I used to use Woodsman BHs on aluminum shafts. I was leery of over heating and causing the heads to loose temper. Before glueing to adapters, I cleaned them out with gumout or chemtool carb and choke cleaner and a used up .40 cal cleaning brush. That was around 2003 or so and they are still solidly glued to the adapters and one of those has been into/through 3 does.

P.S.
Hoping Sunday still a go.

longbow fanatic 1 · July 15, 2016, 06:05:00 PM

Thanks, Tom. Sunday is absolutely a go and I appreciate the tip!

black velvet · July 15, 2016, 06:42:00 PM

I just put them in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes.

longbow fanatic 1 · July 15, 2016, 07:06:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by black velvet:
I just put them in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes.

Orion · July 15, 2016, 07:29:00 PM

If I can see, smell or feel oil in the ferrule, I'll swab it with a Q-tip and some alcohol. Other than that, I don't bother cleaning the heads.

I have yet to lose a broad head. I have lost one or two field points shooting them into frozen targets in winter, but even that hash''t happened since I switched to a softer hot melt a half dozen years ago.

Be careful to not overheat the heads in mounting them. Doesn't take a whole lot of heat. I use an alcohol burner, which gives much less heat than a torch.

Would probably need to heat the heads to red hot to remove the temper, but if you're discoloring the metal, you're probably starting to get close.

Biathlonman · July 15, 2016, 07:38:00 PM

I don't much heat the head, if at all. I heat the glue, dip the taper and stick on the head. I'll give a quick swipe of the flame from my butane torch in the ferrule just to burn off anything excessive but I've often skipped that step and not noticed a difference.

Sawpilot 75 · July 15, 2016, 07:39:00 PM

x2 on the Q-tip and alcohol. I have shot wood for 29 years. Never lost a head that I can recall. A few field tips maybe.. A good 2 part epoxy and they will not come off without heat.

Sam McMichael · July 15, 2016, 08:04:00 PM

I usually wash out the head with alcohol also. Some times I do use a flame, but not much heat is needed. Just let the flame reach the inside of the ferrule, and you are good to go. I have had no issues with heads coming loose, whichever cleaning method is used.

Gordon Jabben · July 15, 2016, 08:05:00 PM

Yes, if you heat enough to burn oil you will ruin the broadhead. A friend ruined some just by overheating for hot melt glue.

newhouse114 · July 16, 2016, 12:58:00 AM

I have a tendancy to think that temper in a broadhead is overrated. It doesn't have to hold an edge over a period of use. All it needs to do is hold up in case there is bone contact and make one slice through meat which is not very abrasive. I could make hammered copper, or cast bronze broadheads that would work virtually the same as the highest quality steel heads.

cedar · July 16, 2016, 10:51:00 AM

I clean out broadheads and target points with Q-tip and alcohol, and then rough up with 38-cal brush. Heat glue stick just enough to coat shaft and then a few seconds on the head. If you heat head too much, it will try to slip off the point of shaft. When set, spin test for alignment and dip in water to cool.

Pine · July 16, 2016, 12:15:00 PM

Alcohol or acitone .
As far as over heating goes , if you draw the temper , they can bend much easier
That is only a problem if you contact bone .

Red Beastmaster · July 16, 2016, 01:57:00 PM

I just warm them over a candle. I heat the dab of glue until just before it bubbles. Push it on with a twist and it ain't coming off.

The only time a point or blunt has come off was after hitting a hard stump in cold weather. I consider this a non-issue.

I have never cleaned out a point in my life.

July 16, 2016, 02:26:00 PM

I have not lost a head since I went to Stanley amber stuff that I get at Bomgaars. Best melt glue that i have ever found. It takes more heat than the softer stuff, but it also holds tighter. i figure if the head is so hot that the glue boils out it may be too hot. That extreme heat can change the metal as well. Just hot enough is just right. I suppose if you wanted to really harden up your heads you can make them glowing hot and then stuff them in some cold water, but I don't like brittle metal.

Don Stokes · July 16, 2016, 05:57:00 PM

I heat the tip of my stick of Ferr-L-Tite and put just a little on the taper. I heat the broadhead with a torch, first by pointing the torch inside the ferrule, but I run the torch up and down the outside of the ferrule carefully until I know it's ready, avoiding the blades. It's ready when the glue completely liquifies when I apply the head, holding it with pliers. I rotate the head to spread the glue evenly and press the point into a hardened wood block, blowing on it as I do, and then immerse the head in a glass of cold water. Never had a broadhead performance problem in many years of doing this. I don't think you're likely to affect temper unless you really overdo it. New heads will often smoke at the right point, burning off the oil. I make sure I get it at least that hot.