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400 gr head/wood arrow

Started by Shadowhnter, July 10, 2016, 12:04:00 PM

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Shadowhnter

Thanks everyone for the replies and good helpful posts!

I built up a single arrow,using woody weights in conjunction with a heavy field tip that came up just a few grain short of 400. I put it on a 65/70 tapered POC, that was fletched with three 4" made from wild turkeys. The arrow flew extremely well, with only a tad bit of velocity loss...at least that I could notice. My next goal is to bare shaft the thing...even though i know it might not be necessary. Then, it will take some shooting and time, to get my full confidence as far as its integrity. I fully believe that it wont be any more or less likely to break then my lighter 690 gr arrows, but living it always seems to add a new level of confidence.  I certainly love how my bow feels shooting it. My finished arrow landed at a skiff under 825gr....it seems to magnetically draw towards the spot.

Captain*Kirk

Jason, as I think has already been suggested, once you have an arrow flying pretty much the way you want it, the next step is to do 'destructive testing' by deliberately shooting at bone from your typical hunting distance. My suggestion would be beef bones from a butcher shop...solidly anchor a scapula (shoulder blade)or similar large bone to simulate 'on the hoof' and then let 'er rip using varying angles. If the arrow survives or even penetrates, you know you have a winner.
Aim small,miss small

Fletcher

Sounds pretty good at this point, SH.  Rather than bareshaft, with wood arrows I much prefer to paper tune from very close, like 6 feet.  You will be able to see exactly what the arrow is doing by the hole or tear in the paper and when tuned to a hole I have never had an arrow that didn't fly well with the same weight b'head well past my hunting range.  It might also save you a broken shaft as wood arrows don't like hitting a target at an angle.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

SlowBowinMO

I have been shooting "point loaded" woodies for quite a few years now.  My experience is the same as Fletcher's, while you will need more spine you won't need near as much as you might think.

Point loaded woodies work very well and penetrate like mad.
"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"

Shadowhnter

QuoteOriginally posted by Braveheart Archery:
I have been shooting "point loaded" woodies for quite a few years now.  My experience is the same as Fletcher's, while you will need more spine you won't need near as much as you might think.

Point loaded woodies work very well and penetrate like mad.
Thanks. I measured the average penetration in my target with my 690 gr arrows, compared them to the 822 gr arrows. I will say the FOC is another 5+% on the 822gr. The difference of penetration on average in my target, nearly doubled.

Don Stokes

Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

Shadowhnter

Nope.....elephant would take closer to 1250-1500 gr.....lol!  :biglaugh:

Shadowhnter

Well, by now Ive tried several combinations in test tuning.. A 55/60 with 375 @ 28" = weak.., 65/70 @ 28" with 400, 425, and 450 all of which the arrow was stiff at 28", but at 450 it was coming out of it. From what Ive gathered now I've deduced I simply need a new full length 65/70 to tune in to... and for my equipment I already own makes sense to use 425gr. That should put me at around 850gr total, and an upper end EFOC. I am amazed at how  little a spine jump I needed. I could have went with only a 5 lb jump, and stayed at the same length,  but Ive opted to add a little more length to move the head farther from my hand. Seems like a couple very smart guys told me I'd be surprised at how small of a spine jump id need from 300 to 400. They were right! Ordering my shafts soon...


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