Carbon Arrow inserts

olddogrib · July 10, 2016, 04:51:00 PM

91 and counting! It was about 2 years ago I converted from epoxy, but never looked back. The formulations prior to that which were made for aluminum flat would not work. I've never had a failure with the Quik Stik.

Orion · July 10, 2016, 05:28:00 PM

McDave: Nothing really unique about the hot melt Big Jim is selling, though it is good stuff. Just melts at a somewhat lower temperature than the hot melts of old like Ferrule-tite. There are other brands out there as well.

I use it because of it's ease of use and haven't had any problems with heads pulling out. Have never lost one, and I've buried heads in some pretty stout stuff.

I do think epoxy might be better for preventing the point from mushrooming the arrow shaft on really hard hits. I don't use aluminum footings much, but recently acquired a few shafts that had the footings attached with hot melt as well.

A shot into a steel silhouette target pushed the point back an eighth of an inch or so, just beginning to mushroom the shaft. Had both the insert and footing been epoxied rather than hot melted, that may not have occurred.

Stump73 · July 10, 2016, 08:19:00 PM

#90 BigJim hotmelt. It doesn't get brittle like alot of the others and it's tacky

Tedd · July 10, 2016, 08:56:00 PM

You wouldn't think it would matter much but some brands of carbon shafts don't hold inserts as good as others. I can hot melt AD trads and never have an issue (except in extreme heat I have turned and insert while tightening a broad head.
I also use the three rivers trad only which I believe in the same as a bee man ICS. Those are slick inside and out. The insert has a really precision fit. Hot melt won't hold those. I just experimented with some lot tite gel epoxy on the 50 gr brass inserts. I slammed an arrow into a hickory tree 4 times then twice into a rock. The insert held. I often read on here that the three rivers shafts aren't as tough as gold tips. I would bet that it's because the inserts slide back because the glue slips and flares the shaft. I'll use the loc tire epoxy on the rest of them. It made the connection so strong it acted like a footed shaft.

olddogrib · July 11, 2016, 03:52:00 PM

I shoot Beman ICS and 3R Trad Only and have never lost an insert with Quik Stik. I will admit that part of my installation includes cleaning the shaft inside with an acetone dipped swab and roughing up with a spark plug cleaning brush, but I did those things back when I used epoxy...oh, and I try not to shoot trees and rocks, lol.

July 11, 2016, 06:42:00 PM

Big Jim advertises that he does not clean the shafts when he uses this glue. When I shot GT shafts, I cleaned them with alcohol on a cotton swab. I don't do any cleaning or prep with the FMJ's.

Bisch

widow sax · July 11, 2016, 10:24:00 PM

Another Big Jim's hot melt user the best I have ever used. Widow

huskyarcher · July 12, 2016, 06:46:00 AM

Im with Bisch! All of my friends use it too with fantastic results.

dbd870 · July 12, 2016, 08:07:00 AM

Add me to the list!

oldgoat · July 12, 2016, 09:19:00 AM

Everything Bisch says but, I am sure Big Jims glue is great but I used hot melt on my CX Heritage shafts and did not work. Someone told me to look for High Temp hot glue . I've found it everywhere builders supplies,horbor freight,etc. just look for the amber color not the milky stuff. I also prep my shaft with brass rifle cleaning brush,acetone ,but the last thing is I keep a bottle of cool water close. When I get the insert in I dip it to give it a quick cool seams to set the glue,works for hot west Texas 3D shoots. Bob

Frank Warnke · July 12, 2016, 10:37:00 AM

I did not know about Jim's product so I have been using Gorilla Super Glue Impact Tough for the past year and have not lost any tips. I prep the inside of the GT shafts with rolled up sand paper and clean with alcohol. On a damaged shaft, I can heat the tip and salvage the brass insert. I can find the glue locally at a number of places.