I am not as concerned with point weight as I am total arrow weight, so if i have to use 175-150s up from who cares. Playing around with the arrows and seeing what works is half the fun and you guys have given me a great starting point.

If my 2013's wont shoot at all, no big deal, i bought them for footing anyway  

I think the 2016 sound the best in theory, but we shall see.

Maybe a dumb question but for example, is there a different besides color in 1916 purple jazz arrows or the camo xx75? or are they just different production runs with different cosmetics?

No difference , just the color .

The 2013 and the 1916 spine about the same. The smaller 1916 diameter puts you just a hair closer to center shot than the 2013 does.
DDave. I went on a spree a few years ago and also got a couple dozen 1916 legacy shafts, plus a whole bunch of fiberglass shafts that spine in there just about like the 1916s...then I have some cedars...

I try to stay away from thin wall aluminum arrows. Back when I shot a lot of 3D I use to beat up arrows terribly.
Just ordered 1916 Eastons for my grandson. New bow, new combination. I always plan on 145 grain tips knowing I can go up or down if I need to correct.

Easton, 3 Rivers or Lancaster Archery have charts. The one above shows 1916 up to 175 gr tip, @ 26", possibly up to 27", but a 2016 might be better at 27" or if your going with more wt up front. I like the idea of using some used, in good or better condition to make up your own test kit.

QuoteOriginally posted by Hud:
Easton, 3 Rivers or Lancaster Archery have charts. The one above shows 1916 up to 175 gr tip, @ 26", possibly up to 27", but a 2016 might be better at 27" or if your going with more wt up front. I like the idea of using some used, in good or better condition to make up your own test kit.

good suggestion, i know a special little store north of me that sells used alums for about 3 bucks a shaft