Some broadheads have the back edges sharpened. (I thing Magnus Stingers are like that). Some hunters, in a rushed shot, or excitement, might overdraw and those sharp back edges can nick you if aligned vertically.

Fred Bear used his as a draw checker. Of course the Bear Razorheads were not sharpened on the back edges.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=106256

I can see it happening shooting off of a low or modified shelf with the hand very near the arrow and the broadhead is drawn up to the back of the bow and you extend your bowhand fingers in a relaxed grip like some like to do.

I've never done it myself either.

QuoteOriginally posted by reddogge:
I can see it happening shooting off of a low or modified shelf with the hand very near the arrow and the broadhead is drawn up to the back of the bow and you extend your bowhand fingers in a relaxed grip like some like to do.

I've never done it myself either.

Orrrrr if you draw on a nice deer, get excited & overdraw just a bit?
It hasn't happened to me, but "murphy" lurks everwhere?  I have overdrawn with field points, & it wasn't fun.   :eek:

The most important thing I found is having an arrow that flies correctly when bareshafting. That tends to be what dictates the length of my arrow, the tuning with the weight I want upfront. I draw 29, and as luck would have it whats working for me right now is a 32 inch arrow, which shoot perfect out of both my bows, a 57lb whip, and a 75lb border archery falcon.
I work on the principle that if it isnt broken, dont try to fix it.
I cut my finger once. it was as described, a broadhead sharpened on the back edge.

My arrow length and draw length also match Terry & Bill's. Don't like 'em any longer, but sometimes go as short as 28" BOP.

My 3D arrows are longer in order to keep my same point-on and window within my much heavier setup effective hunting range.

My primary focus is hunting and maintaining the same site window within my effective hunting range permits me to naturally focus on the gifted hunting shot opportunity to be taken.

Yep, cut my index finger a little bit drawing with a single bevel bhead with the sharpen back end, I drew to far back.  Now I dull the back end of the single bevels.

I use wood arrows and cut them so my BH touches my index finger at full draw.  I use that as a draw check and it triggers my release.  I cut my blunts to my draw length exactly at 28 inches.

Shorter wood arrows recover from paradox faster than longer woods arrows, making them more stable in flight.  

They end up being well balanced with a normal 125 or 145 grain head and picking the proper spine is a snap.

What ever tunes best. My current arrows are 1 1/2" longer than my DL.

Who carries the longest full cut carbon arrows?

My broadhead arrows are usually an inch or inch and a half longer than my draw, allowing for gloves in winter. I've never cut myself, but if the broadhead touches my finger it is a distraction I don't want when making a shot.

Ok but I find that any overly long arrow is more forgiving and straightens out paradox whereas a shorter arrow would fly straight but to the left of what I am shooting at. So I compromise by taking a 1/2" off a 28" bop arrow add ten grains to the point weight ( 135 gr) . This is done to make arrow extraction easier from my back quiver. Wish I could cut back to 27 or even gasp ...a 26 1/2" . That would be a disaster for me as the arrows nock left as I stated earlier .
So is it true that adding point weight to a shorter arrow help it to fly more to the center??

I forgot to say that my draw length is 26".

I forgot to say that my draw length is 26".

27" draw and arrows 30" for my ASL's.

26 inch draw, i dont really like my arrows overs 29 inches

I like mine 29", i am 28"draw.

arrow 32", draw 31".

31" BOP arrows and drawing 29" for me...

I have a 28" draw. Cut arrows. 29 1/2 BOP and never had a problem