Nice score Ralphie! Heard of  "Blue Duck" now a "Chicadee" Very nice.  

Ill tell the specs again for anyone who missed.  68" 55@28. Zebra wood riser, and zebra wood lam on back.  Red Elm core, red elm on belly.  Straight-limbed reflexed 1".  Cut no where near center LOL.  The grip is not Craig at C&N Archeries standard straight grip, but it was a custom grip made for the buyer.  As you can tell by the pics, its not really a locator per say but more of a taper from 1 15/16" under the shelve to 2 1/14 at the heel.  The grip is  unbelievably comfortable.

Limb width at riser fades (1 1/8'), width at tips (1/2"), 1/2" deep core.  Oh, and the black lam in the limbs is a carbon lam.  This bow is so smooth, and quick it is hard to believe.  Zero felt shock at all.  I have fast taking a liking to this bow.  There is something almost magical about it.  

Its almost a shame I am loving it so much, because next wednesday or thursday I should have a HH Wesely special arriving at my door.  And Im not sure how much it will get brought out  :(

Mudd, beautifull quiver!! Nate sure did a heckuva job on that one    

Eric

When I first got the Lee, I was surprised the seller had never strung, or shot the bow.
I really did not know what to do.
I really did not think I was buying a bow, that had not been shot.
I am not a collector, and wold never buy something I could not use.
I had a 64" string around and strung and drew the bow, and tomorrow I will shoot it.
Collectors item or not!

Very nice Ralphie!

How's your Expedition shooting for you?

QuoteOriginally posted by Rossco7002:
Very nice Ralphie!

How's your Expedition shooting for you?

The Expedition is 100% great. It's flat shooting, fast, and hard hitting.  It is completely different from my Miller Old Tom or Sage.
All my Millers are equal and but all are very different.
They really cannot be compared, only individually enjoyed.

A bunch of really nice looking bows!  Still getting bows during hunting season?   I'm too busy playing with arrows and sharpening heads! Illinois is not far away and the Northern Mist classic is ready to go....tick tock

Good on you Roy! I'm sure happy for you. Look forward to seeing it next month.

Centaur, Please believe me when I say you wouldn't want to see Mudd in tights! I saw him in a kilt & didn't sleep well for over a week! Young children were crying uncontrollably.

I'm gonna shoot the ...... out of that collector's item

I just made up my first ever batch of wood arrows last night. Can't believe how quietly they shot out of my Schulz and how quick and easy everything was. Nice way to spend an evening actually. Tuning was a snap as well, pushed the numbers through Stu's calculator and they came out perfect from the start.

The best part is I can whip up some stumping arrows at about 5 bucks a piece now so I don't have to loose my mind every time I loose a carbon arrow under the leaves.

I shot wood,carbon and aluminum out of my recurves and r/d longbows. With my Schulz style bows it's wood only. THey just seem to go together.  

Ralphie , You where bidding against me on that bow ! and if you remember I'm the one who told you about it!!!!!!!!!. I know John Lee personaly,
there are few day's that go bye that we don't talk. he told me he would make that a lefty for me!! I guess I shouldn't of told you !!! Louie Lucido

Rossco7002 ~ "The best part is I can whip up some stumping arrows at about 5 bucks a piece now so I don't have to loose my mind every time I loose a carbon arrow under the leaves."

Rossco, woodies are never lost in the woods.... they are simply returned to the wild....lol


God bless,Mudd

Haha! Very true.... The reduced impact on my pocket book is nice too though. ;-)

I have been wondering about something, why are Hill bows cut 1/8 from center? Is it just tradition or is there some structural reason? It seems like the bow would be easier to tune cut to center or even beyond. Are there any advantages to the bow not being cut to center?

I do believ it's need to start the arrow paradox...

If i'm not mistaken when Hill first started cutting shelfs alot of bows did'nt really have one.  So at the time they were cut closer to center.  Also as narrow as the risers were bow failure would have been an issue.  Other than that its just tradition.  
One disclaimer...... I could be way wrong  

For a few thousand years, there were no shelves cut into bows. Archers shot off their hands. Then there were very narrow shelves with a leather wedge glued to the side of the handle with no side plate.

 

Now, with the advent of epoxies, super glues and and catalytic resins came the laminated bow handle. Shelves were cut deeper. Advertising became King by telling folks their 50# bow design was so powerful it needed 75# spined shafts. All marketing, IMHO.  

 

The closer a bow is to being center shot, the easier it is to shoot. You must have some dedication to the sport to accurately shoot a true longbow.

Again, just my own opinion......

Here is a group I have shot with my New C&N.  The range is 10-35 yards.  Here is the kicker, there has been zero tuning done yet, and after shooting my BH tipped Firs, there won't be.  This thing is already dialed in for me.

But here is a story behind the group.  first off the arrows are 2016 at 29", a couple 2018 at 29" a 60-65 POC at 29" and a  55-60 POC at 29".  I shoot split vision so I have a "pre determined gap"  That is the intro.  I am going to do a write up on how I shoot.

Ok. So first off I know that my group is not going to win the Olympics or anything, which Im not  shooting for anyways.  I look for hunting size groups at all ranges.  

With my Trophy LB and the my C&N, I can not keep my arrow directly under my impact point because of the shelve (assumption) but that does not matter, my point is somewhere around 4 " or so to the right of my impact point.  Now if anyone of you are familiar with Jimmy Blackmon, he explains this the best but Ill give you my mediocre run down.  

At 10 yds my gap is around 15" or so, ( i don't measure with a rule, just hand widths)  15 yds is about 17 or so 20 yes is about 22 or so yards.  So on my Big Buck target (between 10-30 yards)if I float my point over the "G" on big buck my arrows will land in the kill zone every time if I do my part on the bow arm and release.  Now this is not an exact science because I don't focus on pointing the tip on the 'G" I can just tell thru split vision that its there.  

on rabbits, turkeys and other smaller game I just kinda know what that zone looks like so I pick a point 3-4" to the right of where I want to hit and around 20" below impact point.  After doing this enough I just kinda know what to do.  

On stumpshooting when I pick a target my bow arm just kinda knows where to go and I double check with split vision that my point is where I want it.  I do not hold at anchor for 3 seconds or anything, but there is a definite pause at anchor.  The pause is my quick check for windage and sight picture and away the bow goes.