HH bug got me ... Part One!

[Nate Steen .]

guys with long arms and short arrows probably don't need to bump the quiver....but for the rest of us...    the bump doesn't isn't hard to do, and like Chris says, the lower hanging quiver keeps the arrows out of the overhanging branches.


go get 'em Mike.....you need something bloodied.

[tg2nd]

Originally posted by sunset hill:
Bud,  most newbie backquiver guys have the quiver adjusted too high on the back.  You shouldn't be able to reach the arrow nock unless you bump up the quiver with your bowhand or bowarm elbow.  

The process is this:  when reaching for an arrow, both arms go back by squeezing the shoulder blades together....one hand reaching for the nock, other hand bumping up the quiver.  Choreographed movement.  Then after grabbing the nock, both hands move forward, one drawing out the arrow, the other bringing the bow into play.  The physical weight of the quiver will let it slide back into position, which helps the arrow clear leather easier.  A wide quiver allows you to pull the arrow out on an angle (which is easier) unlike a narrow tube quiver which forces you to draw the arrow straight out the end and alot of guys don't have arms long enough for that.

Brother Mud, if you need the strap, the quiver just don't work for you the way it should.
(Just my 2 cents!)
I've got one of Nate's Quivers (not cheap, but worth every penny (and in my opinion more than that!!)) and it works in exact the way he described it! 'till then I had a 1/2 dozen Hill-Style Quivers that didn't really work like they should.
In my opinion Nate's quivers are the best you can get! Try one and I'm sure you will agree!

[rushlush]

Nate makes a very nice quiver. After seeing those pics of Mr Hill, I think I need to adjust my strap.

[David Mitchell]

tg2nd, Mudd has shoulder movement limitations.  His quivers are fine but his shoulders are not. Everyone can't use a back quiver in the "prescribed" way due to body structure, shoulder problems, etc. Not always a fault of the quiver design. Some need to make adjustments in how they use them as Mudd has.  I have a buddy who just desperately wants to use a back quiver and has such shoulder issues that he simply can't. We've tried about everything.

[Bud B.]

I have my three pt connect quivers down pat.

Now I'm trying to conquer the bump thing just to see how I might like it.

The quiver in my above photo has seen lots of woods use and has brass snaps for quick disconnect and brush crawling.

I agree, what works for some might not work for others; and for some, not at all no matter what.

I need to dig up that article Dave and re-read it. It was a good'un!

Anyone have some pics of a Nate Steen quiver? I'm sure they are primo being bridle leather or latigo. Use what works, and work with what you use  

I like that Mudd Flap thingy  

[Mudd]

Thank you folks for the support.

David is correct in that I have limited motion in my right shoulder due to a bad motorcycle accident that basically destroyed my right shoulder.

I know for a fact that I am blessed because after 5 and a half hours of surgery to rebuild the shoulder and some serious rehab I am still able to draw and shoot my bows.

I do whatever will work to keep my head in "Sherwood" and my back quiver is a piece of what allows me to be there.

God bless,Mudd

PS: tg2nd ~ I don't want you to think I took any offense at your thoughts. It's all good!

[Butch Speer]

Mudd is my best bud. He'd been trying to get me to use a really nice back quiver made by Grey Buffalo. I just couldn't reach the arrows cause I have serious muscle loss in my right arm. He set me up with a Mudd Flap and it sure worked out good. even if you just don't like "the bump" , "the flap"     is a great alternative.

[Charlie Lamb]

Butch... have you guys heard from Jerry (Grey Buffalo) lately?

[tg2nd]

Originally posted by Mudd:

PS: tg2nd ~ I don't want you to think I took any offense at your thoughts. It's all good!

I know and I know you did know that I didn't want to offend you.

[blueslfb]

I have a J. Hill bow that is 66" and marked 57@28.  At my 27" draw I am pulling 55lbs. Brace height is set at 6 1/4".

I am shooting tapered 60/65 cedars that are 27.5" from valley of knock to bop.  I bare shafted down to this length w/160 grn points. I got great arrow flight with field points. I also grouped bare shafts and fletched shafts to confirm my tuning was good.

My problem is when I put my broadheads on, my arrows kick up and right and hit 8 to 10 inches low and left. I am a rh shooter. I can't figure out what is going on.  It is driving me insane!!  I have never had trouble tuning recurves or
r/d longbows using the method I described. I love shooting Hill style bows but I can never get broadheads to fly good enough to hunt with them.

Any ideas of what I can try or what the deal is.  I am all ears!!

[Bud B.]

Have you moved your nock point up/down with shooting the BHs? You may have to tinker with brace height also.

What broadheads are you using?

And you may not want to do it, but have you tried carbon or aluminum out of that bow?

[Charlie Lamb]

Blueslfb... It sounds like your shaft selection is good so I'd look at other factors.

Broadheads will require sufficient fletching to stabilize them especially the larger unvented ones.
Make sure you have plenty of spiral/helical on the feathers. (you are using feathers?)
Most guys like 4x 4" or 3x 5" feathers, though some use more.  

Accurate mounting of the head is paramount. Make sure they spin with zero wobble.

Your brace seems pretty high and that is seldom an issue, though usually not needed.

Check your nock fit on the string. Too tight and you could have issues with broadheads. The nock should be just tight enough to "hang" on the string, but drop away with the string is lightly tapped.

[ChrisM]

I have found that I need a little stiffer shafts for my Broadheads.  Since they are hitting right that seems like you are weak, if you are a right handed shooter.

[Pat B.]

Charlie, a 6 1/4" brace is high ??

[ChrisM]

Originally posted by Pat B.:
Charlie, a 6 1/4" brace is high ??

Yep for some its high.  I shoot around 6 or less.  I believe that hills recommendation was the length of the bow divided by 12.  So for a 68" Bow thats 5 2/3"

[mike g]

I'll side with D Mitchell.
  My Quivers are desinged so the top opening is close to leval with the shoulder.
  You reach straight back by your ear to get the arrow.
  I have used the bump method when a Quiver was not adjusted right for me....
  I say do what ya need to do to use a Back Quiver, Age shoulder injures make us all differant....

[John McCreary]

Sitting on stand at 6am the mind wonders. "The Shulz Boys" spent years under the tutorage of Howard Hill. Can you imagine? I would just like to spend an afternoon with John Shulz, over coffee, talking bows, hunting and of course Mr Hill. I would very much like to spend time over a camp fire with said coffee, or something a bit stronger, with our own Ron La Clair. The priviledge would be mine. We share a love of the feathered shaft as well as flintlocks... Perhaps to share a fire with Craig Ekin and David MIller. The knowledge that could be gained would be more than worthy. The experience it self, priceless.

John

[David Mitchell]

Wow, I consider 6 1/4 low.    I always run my 66-68" longbows at around 6 3/4 to 6 7/8".

[San Paolo]

Hi guys,
in the past my bh were 6 1/2 6 5/8 b50 or FF string and my shots were erratic; now my bh are 5 3/4  5 7/8 and my flight are good ( 68" HH reflex and string follow - b50 and FF).
Marco.

[swampthing]

I like 1 inch of brace height per foot of bow length. My 68" Miller with backset goes out the door with a 5.8" or so brace.