So I purchased a RH 1965 Kodiak and I really like this bow. The handle fits me great and I enjoy shooting this bow. The problem is that no matter what I do, I shoot left. The Kodiak is 47#@28 and I'm shooting GT 33/55 (cut to 31") arrows with 200 grain tips. These same arrows shoot right down the middle with my A&H (45@28) and my Stewart (45@28) bows. So, I'm confused as to why the Kodiak impacts arrows left like the arrows are stiff.

Any ideas?

I think you might find your answer in the string differences between those two bows and your Kodiak

DDave

I think Dave is on to something... maybe combined with centershot difference as well...

Jonathan

Great, guys. Thx. Okay, now what string material should I go with and how many strands would you advise?

The Kodiak is not in the same class with the other two bows for performance so I'd say you may be over spined.

Mike

Thx, Mike

I had the same bow and basically the same arrow set up (1/4 inch shorter) and had 250 grains up front. I think Mike is right, the spine is a tad heavy.  try upping your point weight and see what happens.

Nice bow...likely significantly over spined.

I had the same issue with a 1957 Kodiak. Same shelf-cut as my other bows, but it did have a B55 string, where my other bows were FF. I stepped down a spine, but it still shot to the left of the others..    

Thanks for the advice. I've got Allen (A.S.) making me a new dacron string. If that doesn't work, I'll step down in arrow size or increase tip weight.

I had the same issue with a 2013 Bear Takedown.

I liked the grip and the bow a lot.

I know it's not the same bow you are talking about.

I put a new string on it, no help.

I tried all kinds of diff. arrows, lengths and point wt, no help.

I think the Bears are not cut to center as far as other bows.

I think I may have not been gripping it correctly also.

I just could not shoot that bow, and I hated to sell it, bur finally did.

I'm certainly not trying to rain on your parade, and I hope you can fix it.

Allen makes great strings.

I'm sure it was me and not the bow.

Thanks, Irv. I hope I can figure it out. I really like the bow and don't want to sell it.  Thanks for your insights.

Check the sideplate too, to see if it is thicker or harder than your other bows.

Another thing with that bow you may want to cant it a bit to get the arrow under you eye.  Bows not cut to center are a different breed for sure.

Mike

QuoteOriginally posted by wingnut:
Another thing with that bow you may want to cant it a bit to get the arrow under you eye.  Bows not cut to center are a different breed for sure.

Mike

Thx guys! What is the '65 Kodiak riser cut to? Does anyone know?

I have a '59 Kodiak, and one from the '60's (I don't know what year).  Both are 45# @ 28, and I draw 28".  The '60's Kodiak didn't have a string, so I made a Dacron string for it, and it always shot where I looked with 3555 GT and 125 grain point.  The '59 had a string with it, and it always shot to the left with 3555 and 125 grain point.  Finally I decided to make a new string for it out of Dacron, and now it shoots where I look with 3555 GT and a 145 grain point.

So my experience is that you are not overspined, if anything, the opposite.  But you may have better luck with the new Dacron string you've ordered.

Thanks, Dave. I'm so glad to hear of your success with the GT 3355 and a new dacron string. I braced the Kodiak last night with the string it was shipped with. The bow's brace height was 8 7/8" It was way off.  That said, I think the string that was shipped with this bow was the wrong string. I'm really hoping for a big improvement with the new string.

I think you want about an 8" brace height with that bow.  At the moment, I have about an 8 1/4" brace height with mine, but the new Dacron string is still working in.