For years I have been using super glue (gorrila glue blue cap) to glue on aluminum footings on carbons. Only prob, once them dudes are on they are there. Until one day they decide to slide all the way up to the quills on a shot. I want a easier way of removing and adhereing al footings, without taking the chance of over heating the carbons like I do when I use super glue. If not ferrule tite, any other options for lower heat?

I do not see why not. I would use Big Jim's hot melt. It melts at a lower temp the am Ferrule tite. P do not use the Ferrule tite at all any more, it becomes brittle after awhile. Also saw a sleeve made by Bear Paw. It uses no glue. It has a lip that the point/head screws up to. Not sure if they will fit your shafts.

If you want to use a hot melt, try the blue Cool Flex Ferrule Tite.  It is designed to melt at a lower temp than the regular stuff.  Personally I use Insert Iron or Gorilla Glue.

Trying to use things I have. I have ferrule tite, and gorrila glue. Don't like the difficulty that comes with removing the footing with gorrila glue. Seems like a 9 out of 10 chance that I'm going to ruin a good carbon shaft. Would regular hot glue sticks work? I'm sure my g/f has some around.some times I like the footings for some shafts. But once I get them on some I'm just not pleased, with gorrila glue you're pretty much stuck with it.

There's a company called Pam Fastening Technology Inc. They make a hot glue that is actually a construction adhesive. It is as easy to use as a regular hot melt glue stick. It just holds better. I use it to glue tack strip to concrete so I can lay carpet. It really holds. It also really holds on tips. It is also flexible so it won't break when you are stump shooting. You can reheat it and it acts like hot melt glue sticks until it cools.

I can't get hot melt glue to hold on footing on carbons. I tri

Well try again, when I shot 3D or foum targets they all slide due to heat build up. In fact I can't use low temp glue to stay just high temp. The gorilla glue works best but like you say it there for good.

I think I understand your issue but I don't know that I have a lot of options for you.  You want a glue that holds until you want it to let go and you would prefer to use one you already have.  Unfortunately glue sometimes decides for itself if it wants to hold or let go.  The good news is that the Cool Flex is only 2.95 per stick.  You'll pay more for shipping but at least you won't have much $ wrapped up if you decide to experiment with it.

JB Weld is all I have been using. I have never had one move.

QuoteOriginally posted by tracker12:
JB Weld is all I have been using. I have never had one move.

Same here. Never have tried anything else as it seems to works flawlessly for me.

Yes, go with the JB weld. That's all I've used for a while on fmj's. That alone will make the point end of your arrow much stronger. I don't even foot my arrows now and haven't damaged a shaft stump shooting. This is with 60 lb plus bows

I use loctite 380. Also known as black max.
keep it refrigerated, and it lasts for years.
Holds great, and apply without heat.
When I want to remove a footing; I screw a field point into the insert, and heat the tip only with an alcohol burner for 30 - 40 seconds.

QuoteOriginally posted by TradBrewSC:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by tracker12:
JB Weld is all I have been using. I have never had one move.

Same here. Never have tried anything else as it seems to works flawlessly for me. [/b]

Nothing beats it, but I think it is permanent. I've had the superglue let go and the footing slide up the shaft, so I'm sticking with JB. I can't recall ever wanting to remove the footing, so I can't offer much help with that.

Thanks for all the reply folks, looks like I want my cake and eat it too. I was afraid the hotmelt would heat up in targets also. Thanks for the input. Might try the cool flex when I place my next order.

X3 for JB weld. Can't see why you'd want to remove the footing anyway.

I use slow cure epoxy and have not had any issues.

C