I decided to start shooting woodies, so I bought a v2 taper tool from 3 rivers. My problem was that after staining, and sealing with a couple coats, the shafts wouldn't fit in the guide.
The guides are about +.005" over 11/32. The problem is the shafts are +.007".
I have only tried this on one doz. sitka spruce shafts.
For those who have used this tool, is this normal, or am I doing something wrong?

I use it on surewoods and after finishing if I need to retaper I use the 23/64 guide. I use reparrow to fix some broken woodies and always order them 23/64 so they are easier to match to my finished shafts and lots of times I taper them with no guide on the v2. It is just a guide and I have no trouble keeping tapers straight without one, I just take my time but prefer to use when able.

I have had the same problem on the last two batches of arrows....in which i had coated them 4 times.... I had coated a batch of arrows two times and had no problems.

Yeah, less dips or coats, or taper before dipping/coating.

I got one, was never satisfied. Even after they sent another. I just stick to the cheapy plastic throw away. Honestly wish I would just sent it back for a refund. But was to lazy too. Lol

I like mine. I just do my tapers before sealing.

I found that if I wrap the finished arrow with scotch tape a couple of turns, and use the 23/64" guide, it takes up the slop. Kind of a pain, but I do like the way the tool cuts.
I would taper before finishing, but was told that the hot melt doesn't bond as well to the lacquer as it does the raw wood.

Scrape the finish off the point before putting points on, or, use two part epoxy. You could also sand (scuff up) the tapers a little to help with bonding. I use hot melt and rarely have any problems (I attribute it to not cleaning the inside of the point well enough - oil). When I use two part epoxy I have never had a point release from the taper.

Thanks Bud- That will sure make life easier.

I taper first then finish.......

Heat will still make the two part epoxy release, just need a little more. Be careful not to overheat, though.

When I do wood I make sure they are straight then I taper. After that I stain and paint.

I never put stain or paint on my tapers so the glue bonds real good on bare wood.

I made that mistake to. I have the same taper tool. I will taper before I stain/seal but I used the next size up  accommodate the larger size due to the thickness of the poly

Kat,
It isnt the taper tool thats the issue. It is the arrow shafts.
Sitka spruce are slightly oversized so you need to sand them before they fit in the 11/32 guide.
The burnished shafts 3 rivers sells will fit exactly in the guide.
If you use a think coat of sealer,they wont fit either. So like others said taper before you stain and finish.
Use the 23/64 guide if it doesnt fit. I have never had an issue with wobbley points using a bigger guide.
I have made thousands of arrows with this tool. I used to sell arrows.
Just my .02