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wood arrow builders ..HELP! COMPLETE! Pics page 3

Started by Matty, August 28, 2015, 09:32:00 PM

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Matty

Starting my journey into wood arrows..
Is this a good product for sealing? Do I need to thin it. Going to be running the shafts into a dip tube with a gasket top..
All input helps. Thanks in advance. Matty
   

Wandering Archer

Tag to follow
Can you use urethane with a gasket? I've only ever used gasket lacquer. I'm trying wipe on poly, but I'm wiping it on, I wonder if I could dip with it?

Stumpkiller

It should be fine.  I use Minwax Wipe On for my shafts but have used their spar varnish on masts, booms and yards.  Holds up well outdoors.

But you are going to have to thin it down for gasket use.  Don't know how that will work.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

WESTBROOK

Yes its an excellent sealer for arrows and very durable. I've used it a lot. Thin with mineral spirits about 2/3 poly and 1/3 spirits. Dip without the gasket.

tukudu

I like the min wax poly seal. You can get it with stain added,, a lot of small can applications available. Just steel wool in between  and you are good to go. You can use blue tape for applying a krylon spray  painted cap and seal and stain the remainder of the shaft. For me it's less mess and less material. Get good shafts and enjoy. Tom
"Brothers of the flaming arrow"

snag

I have noticed that over time the spar urethane will "yellow" the crown area if painted white. Other than that it works just fine.
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

Brianlocal3

It will work fine.
I personally dilute to 50/50 ratio,
Spar is a slow dry finish
JD Berry Taipan (original) 53@28 62"
Cascade mountain Brush Hawk 53@28 56"

Fletcher

What Westbrook said would be my suggestion as well.  3-4 coats lightly sanded or wooled between each.  Green Scotchbrite works pretty good, too.

Spar finishes are made a bit softer than the regular polys so they can move as the wood swells and contracts with change in weather.  This makes it more likely to target burn.  Thin coats helps it cure harder.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Bud B.

I use gloss fast drying Minwax oil based poly thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. It gives a rock hard finish and does not target burn. 0000 steel wool rubdown between coats. I usually do three dips with no gasket. Let'em drip dry after allowing excess to run. I let it drip until it drips to about one drop per second while holding it over the dip tube and then hang.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Matty

Wow. Thanks for all the great advice guys. Some of the "who's who" of arrow making. I'll go out and get whatever the correct thing to use is. I simply get confused with all the terms
ie. spar urethane, polyurethane, gasket laquor, "wipe on poly", poly seal..I get to wondering if these are actual product names or names we give a product.
BUD B. Is this the product you use?

I have this on hand obviously. But reading it tells me LITERALLY "for exterior wood surfaces we recommend HELMSMAN SPAR URETHANE" that's why I bought the other one. Assuming I'm going to be outside in the elements with my arrows. That's the product to get...I have no concern about yellowing. As I'm not painting or putting a cap on my arrows. But target burn may be of some concern. Thanks for any and all of the help. I really appreciate it.

Green

I see you have satin, actually the FD high gloss is what you want if you're going to use poly. A very hard finish once cured. Not immune to some target burn, but it's a close second behind gasket lacquer.  As has been said before, don't use the gasket with poly.....just dip and allow it to drain back into your tube.  Steel wool and wipe with a towel after the first coat is cured (gotta give this stuff a full 24 hrs between coats) and then you should be able to go to 3-4 coats total without further scuffing.

Take your time and Have fun!
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Bud B.

TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Mike Vines

I have a tutorial on this website, here is the link...

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000138


I also have a tutorial on the Professional Bowhunters Society (PBS) site...

http://www.probowsociety.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2775
Professional Bowhunters Society Regular Member

U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President

Matty

Thanks a million fellas. Off to hunt elk. For a day. Monday will be arrow making day!

monterey

I think I'm using the same stuff as budb if that is the blue can Water based stuff.  I've gone 100% water based.  Wipe on poly over Water based stain, Water based acrylics for crown and cresting. Wipe on over the top when done.  Duco and platinum stick very well.  Plus, it doesn't catch fire if I'm careless with the feather burner.   :biglaugh:
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Dave Pagel

Spar Urethane is all I use and I use the gasket system.  I have found the finish very hard, durable and not prone to target burn.  Love making woodies!

D.P.

Green

Dave, that's interesting.  I'll have to give it a test.  How's the shelf life of SU in a dip tube?
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Bud B.

QuoteOriginally posted by monterey:
I think I'm using the same stuff as budb if that is the blue can Water based stuff.  I've gone 100% water based.  Wipe on poly over Water based stain, Water based acrylics for crown and cresting. Wipe on over the top when done.  Duco and platinum stick very well.  Plus, it doesn't catch fire if I'm careless with the feather burner.    :biglaugh:  
Mine is oil based.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Dave Pagel

Green,

It will start developing a crust on top if you don't use it for a while (10 days or so depending on humidity and temperature).  I just take that part out of the tube and start the next batch.  I have never had an issue.

D.P.

bowheadhunter

Heat up some Walrus or Spotted Seal oil coat 3 times dry for 3 days than use Mini WAX polyU ,Spotted Seal oil goes on easier but both condition arrows from moisture ...arrows stay straighter in wet and very cold weather.
The Rock-Star of Trad-Talk

White Wolf Max P 40-55 lb adjustable longbow..

Border Harrier #53 carbon fast as A BOW CAN BE.


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