I'm shooting a 62" classic whip 54#@28" my arrows are Doug fir 28" from back of point to nock valley 3x5" shield cut tru flight feathers, spined at 55-60lb tipped with 160gr steel field points.

For some reason I always hit to the left and it seems that they don't move around the bow so well upon release... My form is probably bad as well but I've been trying to learn how to shoot just from reading and watching videos.

Haven't found many people around me that shoot trad, most I know are shooting wheels or the X things.

Just sort of got the bow then went willy nilly into the arrow and point selection and well basically the whole trad area as well. I do however shoot the longbow better than the recurve I have.

I have been trying my best at sticking a groundhog with it this year, I've come scary close but can't seem to connect

Do you shoot RH or LH? Others need to know in order to help you out.

order you some heavier point weights, this will tell you if its too stiff if your arrow starts moving to the right.. might be able to get a sampler pack from 3 Rivers or someone so you dont have to buy a bunch of one weight until you figure out which you need.. Im thinking you need around 200 gr. or so with 28 in. arrow, especially if your only drawing 27 in.

More likely too soft, though you should be close, or a form issue. My wife has had (still has one) two whips: I asked Dan about what spine, he said 5 lbs. over bow weight (I take that as 5 lbs. dynamic spine). Made up a set to those specs, and they fly beautifully.

So, in your case, tell us your draw length, and whether you want to keep 160 for points, and I'll wager we'll get you mighty close, if not spot on.

Shoot right handed,my draw length is unknown on this bow but I do draw to the back of the point on the arrow, I'd like to keep the 160gr tip weight as I have 160gr aces mounted on 3 arrows (sometimes worry about losing a finger when I draw with those, glad the back of them isn't sharp)

The 5# more spine sounds correct for me. Is your bow close to center shot? Are you trying to shoot this bow straight up or are you canting it? Are you "peeking"? All of the above can make your arrow go left. I note your other bow is a recurve. Maybe you need to turn your bow arm's wrist in a little.
I bet you can guess where I got the above insights. I am guilty of all of the above going from my recurves to a longbow. Especially the "peeking".

Is there a,side,plate,of any type on your bow?

As a quick test you could add some thickness, maybe several thicknesses of tape to your side plate.  This should make it worse and go along with spine a little heavy.

I bet itfthose were cut to 29" they would be perfect.
There are wood arrow extensions available.

The obvious question often fails to get asked in a situation like this...how long have you been shooting and roughly how many arrows do you think you have launched?

DDave

I've had it since August 2013 or close to there and as far as shots taken, never counted but I'd say roughly 500-700, I don't get to shoot nearly as much as I'd like and I can't shoot at home or after work due to working nights.

Does have a side plate and a hair rest, don't have it with me but guessing its close to 1/8" thick

I would think your arrows are weak not too stiff. Can you come to full draw with a broad head on instead of a field point without hitting your riser ? You could get a stiff arrow read if your are way under drawing, but if you are close to 28" then I would try 60-65's or even 65-70's ... I shot 55#'s for years and a 28" draw on several style bows and shot 70-75 cedars.

Good luck

I have some 225 and 260 grain glue on points that I don't use anymore. If you want to try them I can send some to you. No sense in buying them until you find out you need them.

I think elkken is probably right.
On my 53@28, I am pulling around 51#, and shoot a 60/65 Sitka Spruce with 160 heads.

On my 54@28 Tall Tines, I am shooting 70/75  Surewoods with 160 heads.  I have a 54# longbow that shot the 70/75 with 160's well also.
I know, different bows than you are shooting, so take it for what it's worth, but I am getting really nice flight.

I recently shot completely through a nice bear with the 60/65 arrow.

I guess something has changed over the years.
I always shot 55 to 60 pound spine from my 50 to 55 pound,bows. 5 pounds over was the standard.

I know some bows have the shelf cut past center,and it changes,everything.
Is the using 3 fingers under having a effect?

I know this doesn't help answer the question. We always changed one thing at a time, like the point weight to see which direction was needed.
Good luck.

All the advice in the world won't help you if you don't know your draw length. Measure this first and then go from there.
You do need to add 5# of spine weight to your shafts just from going up from 125gr pts to 160gr pts.
You've got a nice bow!

I draw till the broadhead touches the front of the riser, I shoot split finger also, I have some uncut carbons somewhere in the house. Could draw one then mark it when I'm at full draw, the arrows I'm shooting now fit fine when I first started shooting but flew about the same from what I remember

Measured bit with an uncut carbon I had laying around and from the front of the riser to valley of nock was 28 1/2"

Well let's go with your draw length as 28 1/2" for now... next, do you want the back edge of your broad head touching the riser, or do you want a little extra arrow length for clearance?

Bit extra never hurts

A little extra is nice. When the excitement and adrenalin hit when drawing on a deer over drawing will pull the arrow off the string if broadhead hits riser.

With a 28 1/2 draw old way was add,1 inch.