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Gettin Some Cedar Arrows But I got a few ?'s

Started by buckeyebowhunter, November 18, 2007, 10:38:00 PM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

buckeyebowhunter

Hey guys I was thinkin about getting some Cedar arrows. But I had a few questions that made me think twice. My first is what is the best way to cut them, like use a hacksaw? My second is do you guys think it is a hassel to glue on heads, and what should I buy to glue on heads besides a taper tool,and glue? Do wooden arrows get good penetration? My final question is how if you had to would you remove damaged feathers from the wood to refletch the arrows without damageing the shaft? Sorry about all of these questions guys any info would be much apreciated. Thanks.

**DONOTDELETE**

I fletch with fletching tape, easy to remove and refletch.

I use a archery cut off saw,You can use a hacksaw/table saw/ect.

hotmelt is what I use for mounting points, I also have a taper tool hand held one ( pencil sharpener ).

Yes, since I started using wood'n arrows only 4 didn't pass-through.

Fresno Field Archer

Hey there. I make alot of wood arrows and i don't think you can really go wrong by making some. To answer your questions. All i do to cut them is use an exacto knife and roll it around the shaft cutting a line around the shaft and once that cut is deep enough i simply snap the unwanted end off. Putting on heads is harder then screwing them on but not that hard, i use fer-l-tite on mine and they rarely come off. To remove damaged feathers i simply but very carefully use an exacto knife and cut at the glue just before the shaft and then scrape of any excess glue and re-fletch.


Hope that Helped,
                Steve

JBiorn

I use a rotary blade on a dremel tool to cut with, and glue-ons are a piece of cake-I like to use a hot glue gun for this, and I try and warm the end of the shaft up with my hands before glueing---and be sure to clean out the ferrule with alcohol before glueing.
Wood arrows penetrate just fine---infact you can get some REALLY heavy wood shafts that will hit like a hammer. As for removing fletching, I just use a utilty knife and some fine steel wool. Usually comes off pretty easy, and if you end up dinking up the finish just do another light coat before refletching.
Good luck! Woodies are fun.

Mallardstacker

If you have a sharp pocket knife, you can lay them down and roll/cut then snap them off clean on the edge of a counter top  ;) .  It's fast and slick as a whistle. I have also heard great things about that fletch tape...bout to try some myself.

Stacker

IAOUTDOORSMAN

I cut them off with a small hand saw (just go slow towards the end so as not to snap it).  I made a jig to ensure that they are all the same length.

I use the hot melt, as I've read that the fer-l-tite can become brittle in cold weather(?)  I have had little hassle with glue on heads.  They might require a little fine tuning on broadheads.

I attach fletching with with fletching tape.  I have yet to have a feather come off with it.  Nor have I had one to remove.

I have had excellent penetration with all my arrows.

Best of luck with your arrows!

chesapeakeblend

Very good thread!  

So can you guys elaborate on tapering the ends?  I only see one response on that part from mysticguido.
Mike Norton

A man may not care for golf and still be human, but the man who does not like to see, hunt, photograph, or otherwise outwit birds or animals is hardly normal.    -Aldo Leopold

IAOUTDOORSMAN

I'm like mysticguido.  I use the hand held tru-center taper tool.  I've done around seven dozen arrows with the same blades so far.  Quick, eassy, and works great for my needs.

buckeyebowhunter

IAOUTDOORSMAN do you use one of those melting pots for the hot melt. And do you just align the broadheads by hand?

Molson

Anything that cuts wood can be used.  I've done it with a steak knife before.  Just make sure you go all the way around as you cut.

I just take a hot melt stick and heat the tip of it over the stove.  Apply the glue to the taper, heat the head some, reheat the glue, and then align by hand using nock pliers to hold the hot head.

I think it's important to give the shaft a complete spin as you mount the head while all is hot to get the glue spread around evenly.  It also helps center the head for alignment if your tapers are a bit off.
"The old ways will work in the future, but the new ways have never worked in the past."

Matt E

Don't forget to seal your shafts to repel moisture,use a spray can of lacquer,enamel or urethane.

Shawn Leonard

The Tru-Center taper tool is garbage, you are better off with a cheap pencil sharpener one. Other than that great advice so far. BEST archery out of Italy makes a good hand held taper tool, simalar to the tru-center but much better quality. Shawn
Shawn

buckeyebowhunter

Shawn could you point me in the right direction as far where I could order one of those?

IAOUTDOORSMAN

Buckey, I use the hot melt glue stick.  I use an alcohol burner to melt the glue, and heat the broadhead a little.  I apply the broadhead with a pair of pliers.  I then do simple spin tests to check alignment.

I like the alcohol burner.  It allows me to reheat the broadhead and make small adjustments if the glue starts to get hard.

IAOUTDOORSMAN


greenie

Buckeye where in SE Ohio are you, I'm around Cambridge. If your not to far I've got a lot of cedars and arrow building stuff you can try before you invest your money.


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