Looking into making footed shafts with the tapered maple arrows I use, probably mahogany foots.    

Pulling up and chair around the fire.  Will be paying attention to this one in ernest.

Checkout the How-to section....there are a couple of tutorials there, a four-point and a single point.

In the old days footings were used to strengthen the fore shaft on cedar. Maple will work and that combo will give you a heavey hard hitting shaft but, part of the reason for footing shafts is to strenghten them at the point and an added benifit is getting weight forward with the hardwood. You dont need extra strength with maple and you wont get the weight forward benfit. Just my thought on your shaft choice. Since I started footing poplar shafts with a variety of hard woods my arrow flight with selfbows has never been better.
traditionalarcheryproducts.com a couple the Renfro's out of Colorado do a very nice video on footing arrows.
A few choices of light shafts that would benifet from your footing might be cedar, doug fir, poplar, jhowever if all you want is a hard hitting heavey shaft go with your choices.

I did a four point how to a few years ago. It should be on here somewhere.

Here you go
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000130

Footing is fun but work yet worth it as it makes for a nice looking arrow.  I also foot the self nock end with a variety of woods and horn.  I have a traditional feather chopper but if you don't and want that look you can take a razor knife and clip the back (nock end ) of the parabolic cut feather off just as the feather starts down towards the quill. chopping that 1/2" or so off gives you that traditional feather look which adds to the look of the arrow.

I put stone points on them and that also gives the arrow a good look.

Have fun.

Thanks, I am leaning towards Maple or Red Balua or Latoba for shafting, but footing to repair all the old broken Cedars that I have laying around.

Google Gary Davis..he has a footed shaft video complete with jigs.

The question that begs to be answered is how much do you have for tooling, wood working experienced.   If none than a simple block plane and hand saw will work.

Things get easier with a belt sander to do a 2 point foot and a bandsaw for the kerf instead of trying to hand saw it.   only ending with a lathe or edge sander at the high end of toys.   A router for fluting and rounding (like Gary's doing) is indispensable.    I've been told some of the higher end guys are using edge sanders.  I've also seen guys using machinist lathes and most of those are using a trim router in the tool post.

Roland (tecum-tha) had a jig for rounding on a table saw ala pool cue method.   Sure wish I could get it into something other than 1/5ths LOL!   I cant count past 4  

Good luck and have fun!