A question for those who use back quivers while hunting. How do you keep your broad heads from banging together, making noise, and losing their sharpness. I recently purchased a 3 compartment leather back quiver. Thanks in advance.

I don't use a back quiver but use a foam block in the bottom of the side quiver I use for broadheads.

I made sheaths for mine. Like 3rivers carries. They often fall off in the quiver as you pull the arrow. Also keeps them quiet.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Leather+Broadhead+Sheath_i6098_baseitem.html

Is your Quiver to stiff so the middle wont collapse and old your Arrows....
   There was a long post recently explain proper use of Back Quiver....
   One tip was not to bunch your arrows together, but try and line them up in your Quiver.
   Another one is, your first shot should already be in your hand our nocked on your string, Your second shot if needed is in the Quiver....

Little sheaths are so easy to make for 2-blades and not too much more difficult for 3-blade BHs.

All my knife sheaths have a welt to prevent the edge from cutting the stitching, but my BH sheaths are just stitched - takes 10 mins max by hand. I don't expect the sheath to protect me from a cut if I fall - just keep the BHs from rubbing against each other in the quiver or cutting my bow string if I am handling them and the bow at the same time.

Bladepeek - "All my knife sheaths have a welt to prevent the edge from cutting the stitching"

Curious, what's a "welt"...

Thanx

I use a thick car washing sponge and cut it to conform to the bottom of the quiver. Works great.

You need a quality back quiver that is soft enough to conform to your back. The center will collapse preventing arrow rattle and dulling of your heads.

There are many good quivers on the market and those here who can build you one. Example...if you go to the Howard Hill site, they offer 2 backquivers. One of heavy latigo and one of softer leather which they recommend for hunting.

For years I used the heavy latigo quiver with great results. Collapsed well, no arrow rattle. The problem was here in the Northeast when the temps dipped to single digits, any brush hitting the quiver was a tad noisy.

I switched over to a Dave Creger quiver, made a few alterations and now use this quiver full time. My older Schulz, bought in 1977 is my small game/roving quiver now and is a backup to the Creger.

Schulz heavy latigo




Side view of Schulz conforms to back and collapse





Creger quiver



Modified the top to open more...

I cut the fingers off a pair of pigskin gloves, less than 10 bucks on sale at Canadian Tire (don't know where you southern boys go)

I agree with the observation that the quiver must collapse in the center.  A few healthy treatments with Neets foot oil will do the trick on most.  

A back quiver is made to make you a better hunter.  If you can hear the arrows rattling about, you are moving too fast.  Slow down, observe the woods around you and still hunt in silence!  I love hunting with a back quiver and only divert from this when I am backpacking.

Zbone.  picture front and back of a sheath sewn together.  Now you slide your sharp knife in there and eventually you will cut those threads.  

Take and put another piece of leather in the mix (welt) that is narrow,  only lying along the sewn edge, and now when you slide your blade in, it centers on the welt, not the threads.  The welt also gives a bit of space for the blade to fit in better.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

ChuckC

mine is 1/3 full of ceder shavings and I only carry 3 or 4 arrows at a time. I take them out when not hunting,and touch up the edges before the hunt. Also only hunt with a back quiver maybe 10% of the time......ground hunting open woodlots/fencerows between crop fields...........

Put about 2 inches of saw dust or hamster bedding in the bottom
Keeps heads from rattling and keeps them sharp

I have a patch  of full length wool sheepskin in the bottom of mine. Works great. Broadheads nestle down in.

Mine colapses against my back. And I don't do anything while hunting that would cause my heads to move to the point that theyd dull. As has been said, if your arrows rattle, you're going to fast. All I can say is try it. With a good soft quiver, and one that you can draw the top closed a little to reduce the size of the opening, many of the percieved fears of back quivers melt away with an objective effort. I absolutley love using a back quiver. Some dont. But just give it a try.

if you make the little leather bhead booties, make them a half inch longer then you'd expect.  punch a hole through the tip end and string a leather boot lace throughand tie a knot on both ends.  give them enough room to move around a bit.  


when you go to pull and arrow out, the resistance of the other arrows in the quiver will pull the bootie off. and leave it in the bottom of the quiver.

all the other heads are protected so sliding that one back in outside of its bootie should be fine.   (I'd carry a spare in my pocket and slide it on before I'd put my arrow away.)

zbone, Chuck C explained it better than I can, but a pic is worth 25 words (inflation). You can see the extra layer added between the two outside layers of leather to keep the knife edge from cutting into the stitching.

And no, I did not do the engraving. That was done by Ron Knott.