Well I'm wanting to shoot wood out of my new Hill. I picked up a dozen Surewoods and a dozen pass-thru ramin shafts. I have a question about cap dip and lacquer. I'm going to be using Bohning products, would I be right to cap dip first then do a full length clear dip after? I am looking forward to hunting deer with wood arrows again.

I always do a full dip to seal the wood, sand smooth and paint.

Eric

When I was making my wood arrows with Bohning products.I would straighten my shaft and then did a full dip of blue clear to seal the shaft.I also would dip the crown in white first and then do what ever color I wanted.The white would make the colors brighter.

Years ago Bohning recommended not clear coating over their cresting paints. May not be true these days but I would check their website. I also recommend straighting first and during the making of your arrows.
I do it the hard way, straighten shafts, cap dip thin white coat, put finally cap color, stain rest of shaft, crest, then full dip in Glasket Laq. At least 4 times.
Next time I plan on using water based Polycrilic as a final dip instead of GL.

My results have always worked and this is what I do.
1) Straighten the shafts and see if they stay straight for 24 hours in a conditioned space.
2)Light sanding with fine steel wool to knock down any raised splinters or marks.
3) I spray a couple light coats of spray poly urethane. I ususally will lightly sand with fine steel wool after a few coats.
4) I use Rustoleum white spray paint for my caps and apply it in very light coats to avoid runs.
5) I use another coat of spray poly urethane
6) Cresting
7) Use up the rest of my spray poly urethane.
I don't know if I save any money or if this is any easier than any other method but it has always worked for me.

There are so many ways to make good wooden arrows, but did you notice a trend going on here (make sure they are straight first)
ChuckC