Hi I recently bought a dozen Easton xx75 2016 aluminum arrows based on the spine chart from 3 rivers archery. I am shooting a 45# samick sage recurve with a fast flight string. My draw length is 28". I bareshafted 1 arrow starting full length and cutting 1/4 inch off at a time. I am now at 29 inches and they are still shooting very weak. With 3 5 inch feathers they shoot ok but bareshaft they wobble a lot and stick in target nock left. Im shooting 125 grain heads. with 100 grain heads they shoot a little better but still weak bareshaft. All my broadheads and judos are 125 grain. Ive tried raising my brace height from 7 1/2 inches to 8 inches and was using a calf hair rest. Switched to velcro and shaved a wooden arrow with my knife til it was flat on one side and put it behind the velcro for a strike plate. This helped quite a bit but still bareshaft weak. I am wondering if I should of gotten 2018s or somthing stiffer or maybe i should invest in a plunger? any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Yeah, Stu's calculator looks much closer with 2018's.

I use 2016 full length with 125gr up front. I shoot 46# @ 29", I get excellent arrow flight. From bows not cut to center to bows that are cut past center......are you getting a clean release?

Like Ron, I get great flight from 2016s in bows from 45-53#. 145 out front, 5" shield 3 fletch.

On a Dale Dye 46#@30 cut to center I get great flight with 2016 cut 30.5 BOP and 125 grain heads with 5" parabolic 3 fletch

Might not be the arrow.How tight are your nocks??
Impossible to tune anything if the nocks are too tight/inconsistent.
Mike

I have a pile of 2018s around 30 inches with 5 inch feathers if you're looking to buy some. I switched to carbon and don't use them anymore

If you gave your bow specs and were asking for arrow suggestions I would have said 1916's or 2016's ... I have several bows near your set up and 2016's cut to 29 1/2 fly just fine and most will shoot the 1916's too ... that's why arrow tuning can be soooo frustrating at times.

I shot 2018's for years out of 55# bows and really think they would be too heavy for your set up

Something else going on. 2016's shoot great from my 54# Widow. I would think 1916's for 45#. But I could be wrong.

I'm with you. I've yet to find a bow down to 46# that 2016 don't show very weak out of.

maybe it could be my release I'm not sure I will keep playing around with them. Wish there was a better test kit other than the gamegetters limitied selection. If I cant get them to work I dont wanna waste more money on 2018s if they are right either. So far I have been testing with the bow vertical but I shoot more comfortably with it canted about 45 degrees. would this make a difference?

Every little thing can change your shot. What ever you do, try to repeat the change on the next series of shots or you will chasing your tail for ever.

some targets will cause the shaft to move on impact.    Have you tried changing the nock point? is the arrow porpoising in flight?

Like many of the above said they also shoot fine for me in 50 plus pound bows even going to 145 and 175 points when cut to 29.

Try building out your strike plate, or get a weather rest ,just a suggestion

I shoot 2016's from my 45# Samick Red Stag takedown. I draw 28.5" and shoot a 30" shaft. I like a heavy head but the 2016's just don't tune well with my bow with 175 grains up front. I dropped to 125 grain points and they fly like lazers. The up side is there's a lot bigger selection in 125 grain heads out there!

High member number and low number of posts tell me you may be very new to traditional archery...your desire to have perfectly dynamically spined arrows early in the process tell me you were a compound shooter...have you shot enough to consider your form to be solid and consistent...and what do the people who are observing your shooting say?

DDave

I've built out my strike plate with a piece of wood behind the vrelcro not sure what else to do tried some shots at 20 yards today fletched shafts were nock left in flight the straightened right before they hit the target bare shafts were so far nock left they were almost sideways when they hit the target and some bounced off without sticking in because of it

See if you can find someone shooting 1916's and give them  try. I have both 1916's and 2016's and find that with recurves that are closer to 50# at my 28' draw, the 2016's shoot best with either 125 or 145 grain heads. For bows 40# to 45# I find that the 1916's fly better. I definitely don't think that you are underspined though. Maybe the 2016's are kicking off of the riser instead of bending around it?

I used to shoot compound with release have been shooting recurve for a year everything learned so far has been on YouTube no one to watch me shoot that knows anything about archery and I don't know anyone else that shoots triad in my area

I tried the 2016s full length and they did the same thing so I don't see how they could be stiff