A little by changing my bow. Could I change my brace height   longer or shorter or move my arrow center shot in or out to weaken my arrows a little don't need much.
Thanks

Raise brace height

Too stiff?  yes, raise brace height would maybe work.  Or add weight to point end...or move center shot in.

Add more weight to the front.  Easier for me.

I am not a tinkerer, but sometimes I wish I were. If a small tweak is needed, I increase point weight or raise the brace height a little. If those don't work, I try other shafts.

You could also lengthen the shaft a little with Reparrows.

With regard to your arrow you can lengthen the shaft or go to a heavier tip.  (already mentioned)

With regard to the bow.....Slide your bow string silencers up towards the tips a bit or cut them down a bit by trimming with scissors.  This will reduce the weight of the string and weaken the shaft.  You can also reduce the length of the serving on your bow string, again making the string a bit lighter. You could also move your rest contact point on your riser a touch forward. Also mentioned, increase your brace height slightly.

These may seem trivial but doing one or a combination of all will give you the result you are looking for.      

Add a little more point weight is the best way as mentioned above.

What Tim says, plus thin you strike plate if you can.

Tim beat me to the string adjusting tips. Also, depending on how much string silencer material you have, trimming it back will also increase performance a tad which will weaken your arrows.

wait a minute to weaken the spine of an arrow don't you lower the brace height, which can also sometimes add sensitivity and make the bow louder especially recurves.

What Tajue17 said. And Black Widow.  They say lowering the brace a little will allow a weaker spine to fly better.

I guess there are conflicting opinions on brace height.  My BWs shot a weaker spine arrow better with a shorter brace and stiffer arrows flew better with a longer brace.  Adjust it up and down a little and see what helps.

QuoteOriginally posted by Tajue17:
wait a minute to weaken the spine of an arrow don't you lower the brace height, which can also sometimes add sensitivity and make the bow louder especially recurves.

No.  It seems backwards at first, but if you think about it it makes sense.  The closer the string is to the riser, the steeper the angle between the centerline of the string and the riser.  At a brace height of 1", your arrow will be pointing way left (for a RH shooter).  Your arrows would need to bend a ton to get around the riser.  Raise brace height, lower angle, arrow points more toward target, and "appears" to have weaker spine (impact point moves to the right).

Lowering brace height should increase speed and you would think make an arrow look weaker, but if the arrow can't get around the riser it'll shoot way left.

If your right handed and your arrows are shooting to center and you raise your BH you will be hitting to the right of center.

If you lower your BH you will be shooting to the left.

I would buy new arrows or add more weight to the tip.

hmm I never thought about the arrow angle while on the shelf.

By raising or lowering your brace height above or below the bowyers or manufacturers recommended brace is going to effect the all around performance of the bow.... better to tune your arrows and play with strike plate thickness over messing with brace height too much..... food for thought...

yesterday I got to test out my new to me morningstar and found my 45-50 arrows where kicking left right out of the gate when shot showing a weak spine.

the bow should be about 53# @ my draw and 45/50's are usually pretty matched to the hill style bows, so like Kirk mentioned above I removed the thick 1/8" leather side plate and tried the bow at its max brace height with no sideplate at all this time and the arrows now looked pretty darn good with no noticable kick at release,,the real test would be the final test with a wide two blade broadhead.

I think with all my tuning I'll start 1st by taking the plates right off and go from there on the bare shelf maybe blue masking tape to cover the finish,, I always tuned to the exisiting strike plates but I think removing them (only if they are thick) moves the process  along a lot faster.    

I guess this would be for people real serious with tuning and might be on the extreme side but point is the side plate and changing the center shot is a bigger deal than i thought.