I am ordering a reflex/deflex longbow (haven't decided what kind) this spring after shooting recurves since '82. I have a 28" draw and am wondering if there is any real difference in 62" or 64" at my draw length.

ive not noticed a big difference between 62/64. Which bow make are you thinking about, that may help get accurate answers to the question.

There is another alternative...some bowyers will make you a 63 inch longbow...I have one under construction right now

DDave

Wow.. 62" doesn't sound like a very "long" bow !

ChuckC

If you're talking severe r/d, i.e., hybrid, a 62-inch bow will be fine.  If you're considering a mild r/d bow, I'd recommend 64 inches.

With d/r longbows, design dictates "manners" more than length. At your 28" draw length I cannot imagine many 62" d/r longbows that wont work for you. I have owned a number of Dan Toelke Standard and Classic Whips, mostly 62" but one 66" and I am now shooting a 64" Classic Whip. My draw length is 29.5"s and every one of these bows worked beautifully for me.

I shoot a 62 " Robertson with a 28 " draw. No problem at all.

Very good. I figured it wouldn't make much if any difference but since I've never shot one I have no idea. I'm looking at the Bear Ausable, Fox Royal Crown, and Big Jim's Buffalo. All thoughts are welcome.

other thing is talk to the bowyer you decide to go with and ask him what he or she thinks would be best. I'm really liking Keith Chastains Spike III.  www.rmsgear.com  is the dealer for them

All bows are not created equally bro...You need to look carefully at the string angle of the design you are considering. For eample:  I've got a Sasquatch 60" hybrid long bow that will draw clear out to 32" with no stacking or finger pinch issues.

But my D shaped Flatliner needs extra length to get the smoothness on the tail end. Typically a 62" or a 64" should draw 28" easily without any stacking or finger pinch issues. The 64" will just be smoother on the tail end of your draw.

Here is an example.... The first bow is a 64" Flatliner drawn to 31". The last inch of the draw on this 64" is only 2.8 pounds from 49# to 51.8#@ 31"

 


This second one here is a 60" Sasquatch hybrid drawn to 30"..... Note the string angle where your fingers are placed on the string.

 


Here is another example with some lines on it bro... Besides string angles, note the distance of travel of the limbs are bending at full draw...

 

Design dictates this for sure.  The Cascade Brush Hawk is 56" and it works for my 29" draw.  A friend has a Griffin that's 60" and he pulls 30".  

That Fox Royal Crown is a great one, and Ron recommended 64" for optimum comfort and accuracy for me.  

Yes, contact the bowyer and relay your concerns and follow their advice.  Some will even send you a bow to try out if you ask.

What Kirk and Blackhawk stated above.

Also IMO the shorter the longbow the better your form needs to be. I don't think you will have problems with a 62 or 64. Now a 58 has a shorter fulcrum and less mass away from center, so its gonna be less forgiving to form errors especially bow arm errors.

Cory

If you have sausage fingers as I do, go with the 64". It will be a lot easier on your fingers. But I should take my own advice most of my recurves are 64" while my longbows are 60" I enjoy shooting them all but I tend to shoot my longer bows more.

Quote Now a 58 has a shorter fulcrum and less mass away from center, so its gonna be less forgiving to form errors especially bow arm errors.
 

I'm a bit confused here... you say in your opinion shorter bows are less forgiving... and then make this statement.  

Could you explain your philosophy on this one.ya got me going here...

Kirk, my terminology may be wrong what I was trying to say And I could be could be wrong was. On a shorter bow with tips being closer to center the bow could without a good bow arm rotate left or right more easily.  

I guess I could thinking about this wrong since 2 points further from center move a greater distance with the same rotation of a smaller set of points.

Wouldn't it take more energy( wrist twist) to move a longer bow  than a shorter bow?

Cory

Kirk
Why do a lot of guys say a longer bow is more forgiving? Is it because less finger pinch and less stack. Or is it an issue with their form? I'm not trying so sound like a smart ###. If a guys form is good forgiveness shouldn't matter on a bows length should it? Now being comfortable for the shooter would depend on the bow stacking and pinching fingers.

Fred, sorry I hijacked the thread, Kirk will get me think correctly soon.

Cory

If an archer places his hand on the grip of a bow, rather than actually gripping it. any bow is going to be more forgiving in the torque dept.....

My take on the longer bow being more forgiving than the shorter bow comes from the string angle at full draw on D shaped long bows.... go back and look at those photos i posted .... the 60" Sasquatch hybrid has a much better string angle than the 64" flatliner. It's more forgiving because it comes off your fingers smoother with less pinch..... for a 30- 31" draw a 66" or even a 68" is going to be more forgiving on a D shaped long bow than a 62" or a 64" of the same design... But remember we are just talking D shaped long bows...

There are exceptions to the rule when you get into R/D long bows. Depending on the limb design, some of these bows have excellent string angle at longer draw lengths. The Sasquatch is just one of them.

Look at the string angles on a static tip RC bow sometime....

Kirk

Kirk, not looking at performance, would the longer bow of the same design be easier to shoot accurately? Assuming both have no finger pinch issues.

I like kirks description. I personally prefer shorter bows as I primarily treestand hunt.

At a 28 inch draw a well designed rd longbow I should be plenty long.

I have a 56 inch mild rd longbow that I love and am getting a 54 inch static recurve and  a 58 inch.

66" is a perfect longbow