So what I'm seeing is a lot of wear, even on a new strike plate... consistently on the forward half of the plate. My riser is cut with a crown in the center of the strike plate; there is no wear at all before the crown, and wears excessively past that. Put a new leather plate on yesterday, went out for a rove in the woods, took perhaps a couple of dozen shots, and the wear is apparent already.
I'm shooting an r/d longbow, performance string, drawing about
43-44# at my draw length. Been shooting 50/55's, 28" BOP, 125 grn points, for a long time, seems to be the spine the bow likes.
Feedback on whether it's likely to be a spine or form issue?

I'm thinking that arrow has to be WAY over-spined. I'm shooting 3555, 30.5" with 145 - 175 points up front (depends on which 42# - 44# bow I'm shooting) and getting good flight.

QuoteOriginally posted by Bladepeek:
I'm thinking that arrow has to be WAY over-spined. I'm shooting 3555, 30.5" with 145 - 175 points up front (depends on which 42# - 44# bow I'm shooting) and getting good flight.

I definitely agree with Bladepeek. I had one that was doing the same thing. I thought I was close with a 150 grainer and when finally got it tuned right ended up with 225 up front.

I hear what you guys are saying, not sure though if the 3555's translate close to the 50/55 woodies?

Are you getting good arrow flight? Along with spine, have you checked nock height?

Arrow flight is quite good (when my release is!), and I'm pretty certain nock height is right for the setup.

any wear on the arrow or feathers?

I'm sorry. I have a test set of woodies that I haven't had a chance to try yet and I'm shooting mostly carbons with some alum thrown in here and there.

I read "50/55" and translated in my senile excuse for a brain to "GT5575". Don't get old, folks. It's no fun   :(

Don't see any wear on the shafts or feathers (other than normal feather wear over time-minimal).

I've had arrows that were too stiff that showed pretty good flight.  Stiff enough to cause wear on the strike plate, but not so stiff that they "kicked" the plate showing a false weak.  If I was consistent, so were they.  Problem was there wasn't a whole lot of room for error, ie. a short draw and they were striking the plate.
One thing you could try, short of testing other spines is to place a matchstick under your rug at the pivot point of the grip and a vertical one under the plate at the same point, like a built in rest/plunger and see what that changes.  
Good luck.

QuoteOriginally posted by slowbowjoe:
Arrow flight is quite good (when my release is!), and I'm pretty certain nock height is right for the setup.

I'm going to guess that you are using huge feathers, like 5 or 5.5" that mask the flight. Agree that they are probably too stiff.

I agree that your woods at that length are a bit stiff....depending on how close to center the bow is cut.  Try 160 and/or 190 grain points on your 50/55's.  I'll bet you'll be even happier with the flight.

That's some food for thought, wouldn't have guessed they're stiff for this bow. I do shoot 5" feathers. Bow is cut to center (not centershot).Have some 40/45's, and 145,160grn points to play with.
I'll try the lighter spined arrows, and heavier points on these. In the past, they haven't shot as well, but maybe something in my form has changed; I'll try 'em again.

Lots of people make the mistake that1335 or 3555 and so on is the actual spine value. However, this is certainly not the case. Those values come from the compound world and have nothing to do with traditional archery.

Here are the conversions for carbon to wood:

15-35 or 0.600" becomes: 26/0,6 x 1,2115 = 52,5 lbs
35-55 or 0.500" becomes: 26/0,5 x 1,2115 = 63 lbs
55-75 or 0.400" becomes: 26/0,4 x 1,2115 = 78 lbs
75-95 or 0.300" becomes: 26/0,3 x 1,2115 = 105 lbs

As far as your 50/55 woodies are concerned, they seem just a little bit stiff to me. Either leave that shaft longer, or try 45-50.

Dutchman, that is very good information. Staying with wood myself, but that is new to me about the carbons. Sure explains some of the issues I had with them.

Don't have any 45/50's on hand, but I'm playing with heavier points on my 50/55's, and also with some 40/45's - which appear too light a spine.

I used to shoot wood only, and I know many secrets of a good wooden arrow. Started shooting carbon a year or two ago. Found out that spine values for carbon is misleading for most of us. It took me some time also  to figure it out. No I know I can make some good carbons too.

Shelf wear beyond the shelf plate hi point,away from the string is an indicator of a weak shaft.