What Would You Ask?

LBR · November 05, 2013, 06:34:00 PM

About making strings. I've been asked to do a seminar at a tournament next year, and looking for ideas. I plan to keep it under an hour, with a Q&A, then if anyone wants a demo of the basics afterward.

bigb3303 · November 05, 2013, 06:37:00 PM

How to choose length that would be my ?

Blackhawk · November 05, 2013, 06:46:00 PM

There have been discussions among some about the use of low stretch strings on vintage recurves. Users say it is entirely safe, improves performance, and "feels better".

If someone were to decide to use FF on their old Bear, would you explain how to build a string that would be safe...or would you not even entertain the thought?

Grey Taylor · November 05, 2013, 07:38:00 PM

What's the difference between all them dang number soup string materials?

Guy

americanhunter7 · November 05, 2013, 07:42:00 PM

I've always wanted to learn how to properly pad a string and get my loops made better in a flemish string. It always seems like my bottom loop is about correct, but the top always seems so much bigger.

katman · November 05, 2013, 07:51:00 PM

Debunking myths. Just read that section on your web site yesterday.

LBR · November 06, 2013, 12:18:00 AM

QuoteHow to choose length that would be my ?

Great question. There are two "rules". One is the "old rule of thumb"--4" shorter for recurves, 3" shorter for longbows. The other is AMO, which states 3" shorter, period.

Which one is right? Depends. On some bows one, on some the other, and on some neither one. The only safe bet is to measure an existing string that puts the bow at the proper brace. If you don't have one, make a single loops string and tie a timber hitch in the other end to make a string to measure.

QuoteIf someone were to decide to use FF on their old Bear, would you explain how to build a string that would be safe...or would you not even entertain the thought?

I won't do it myself--all the old bows I have mean too much to me. If I were to try it, I'd put extra padding in the loops and only use a Flemish string.

QuoteWhat's the difference between all them dang number soup string materials?

Mostly the grade of HMPE used. Dynaflight '97 is SK75; Dynaflight 10 was SK78; 8125 is SK75; 8190 is SK90. 450+, 452X, and Trophy are SK75 and Vectran; BCY-X is 83% SK90 and 17% Vectran.

For practical purposes, all you really need to know is BCY-X is the shizzle. If you prefer a 100% HMPE material, 8190 or 8125 or, in a larger diameter strand, Dynaflight '97.

QuoteI've always wanted to learn how to properly pad a string and get my loops made better in a flemish string. It always seems like my bottom loop is about correct, but the top always seems so much bigger.

Padding loops is easy--don't over-think it. Just wax the strands and lay them in, then make the string as usual. If you make it to a tournament I go to, I'll be happy to show you. I plan to be at Compton's this year, plus lots more. I plan to put up a list of shows and tournaments I'll be at in 2014 on my site before long.

McDave · November 06, 2013, 12:49:00 AM

After making the second loop, I sometimes find that one bundle is longer than the other. I'm not sure why that happens when I try to keep them the same length, and would like to know how to avoid that.

LBR · November 06, 2013, 01:01:00 AM

Usually it's one of two things: You are putting a tighter twist in one bundle or the other; or one bundle is slightly larger than the other.

The way to avoid this is constantly check for even tension. Once you get the loop joined, check it. Make a few twists, check again, and so on until it's finished. If you find a little slack, you can cheat it out by adding a little extra twist to the slack bundle.

LBR · November 06, 2013, 10:35:00 AM

As a side note, a lot of this stuff is covered in the DVD "How to Build a Great Bowstring" and/or "Doin' the Twist"..... :D

Wetfeet · November 06, 2013, 10:58:00 AM

What do you center serve with? I switched to nylon for the colors and cost. Do you see a real benefit to using a synthetic? So far my nylons have held up fine.

LBR · November 06, 2013, 12:56:00 PM

I have nylon, but prefer 62XS, Halo, and Majesty. Not only are they more durable, but they come in different sizes to give a proper nock fit.

Per spool they cost a good bit more. Per serving, pretty cheap.

Sockrsblur · November 06, 2013, 01:48:00 PM

Chad honestly is I was at your seminar at the tournament next year what would be most meaningful to me would be to see you make a simple string of a simple material that's easily obtained. As in let me walk away feeling hey... I can do that and I know where to get the supplies! Give them a start. Just my 2 cents not knowing a thing about string... but it is on the to do list, Jim

Bud B. · November 06, 2013, 02:00:00 PM

What size loops for what style bow? Hill bows needing smaller loops, particularly the bottom loop...

Advantages of endless loops vs. Flemish twist and visa versa...

Choosing serving size for the arrow nocks you prefer which is dependant upon the # strands in the string...

What serving goes best with what string material...

If you do the seminar it might be helpful to have handouts for those in attendance and maybe a powerpoint/video presentation to act as visual aids.

Maybe hand out flemish board plans...

What to look for when string a needs to be retired.

Using old string material for ???? Tie on nocks......etc...

Roadkill · November 06, 2013, 02:28:00 PM

You could record your lesson high points on a dsic and hand them out-that is really cheap these days and a demo will last a long time. and be an easy refenrence.

November 06, 2013, 03:11:00 PM

Do the number of twists in the string effect the amount of spring on recoil? If it adds to the elastic qualities, would a string with more twists be safer for an older bow or a bow that is not specifically fast flight ready? Would a modern string with less twisting have higher performance and thus more shock to the bow?

LBR · November 06, 2013, 03:35:00 PM

I'm not too good with electronics--don't own any equipment--but those are good ideas.

I haven't done any real testing with twists, but here's my take on it.

Strings aren't springs. Metal has to have a specific temper to be a spring.

I don't count twists, I just know by looking what's too much. I haven't seen where extra twist really causes a problem or costs any noticeable amount of performance.

Pat B. · November 06, 2013, 03:46:00 PM

Chad, years back I got a receipe for string makers wax.. It was a mix of toilet bowl ring wax, bee's wax and some rosin.. I don't recall the proportions. Do you have a good mixture you could share ? I'm about out of my original batch!

LBR · November 06, 2013, 04:19:00 PM

Mine is just a toilet bowl ring and bee's wax. I can't remember for sure, but I think it's a large ring (they come in at least 2 sizes) and either one or two pounds of bee's wax--I want to say two, but I'm not 100% sure on that. It is tacky enough for me, but not too soft.