HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!

April 03, 2015, 06:21:00 PM

Thanks guys...

She's a bit on the stiff side as was the Hunter model when new. Lookin' forward to the slow enjoyable process of breaking it in.

One of life's simple pleasures...for an old guy to savor, eh?

Cavscout9753 · April 03, 2015, 06:28:00 PM

Do you use oil to break it in or just normal wear?

April 03, 2015, 07:01:00 PM

Lucas,
I don't know what others do but I never applied any dressing/oil to my hunter for more than 10 years.

I just wore it often.

Just prior to the pic of the Hunter above, I applied a coat (first one ever) of Montana Pitch blend. She was showing her age but looked like new after the rub-down.

Seems that what I did worked good but David Mitchell can tell you more about the best way to properly break in a back quiver.

nineworlds9 · April 03, 2015, 07:45:00 PM

Cavscout,
Riser wood looks like Bocote to me. Very handsome Wesley. Enjoy your foray into Hills. They will make you sharper. When I shoot a Hill and shoot it well I'll go back to my hybrids and recurves and they make it almost too easy. Love the simple elegance of an ASL. Makes you commit to the shot everytime.

Enjoy playing with back quivers. They do make the whole ASL experience more complete, but don't feel obligated to use one, and forget any comments on "heresy" if you don't enjoy your ASL's "traditionally". I've always shot mine with FF strings, carbon arrows, and a modern side quiver (Bowmate Elite) and couldn't be happier.

The bug is strong. It may wax and wane, but once you have it there is no cure. I go through ASL-less periods, but in the end I always feel naked not having at least one on the rack.

Green · April 03, 2015, 08:11:00 PM

That's a sharp looking quiver Tony. You'll get many years of "stylin'" out of that one as well!

Cavscout9753 · April 03, 2015, 08:30:00 PM

Thanks nineworlds9. I tried a bow quiver (EFA) on my Vixen and didn't like it too much. I couldn't agree more on shooting what works for each person. For me I like wood arrows just because they work best for me. Same with the quiver I guess. The ASL/HH bow just suits all of those preferences and a few others. I'll bounce between this and the Vixen. I'll stick to the Wesley for a long while to get accustomed to the weight though. I really only keep the recurves because I'm waiting on the day for someone to need a bow but not be able to afford one; I've long since got their money out of them. Always scanning for your bow reviews nineworlds9, last I heard you were deep into college, I hope thats going well man.

nineworlds9 · April 03, 2015, 08:55:00 PM

Agreed on all points Cav'.

I'm just deep into medic school. 1 year of real intensity. Already have one degree, this is just part of the next and part of an upgrade of my career skills. Busy as all get out!!

S.C. Hunter · April 04, 2015, 06:34:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
S.C. Hunter, I have seen lots of differing body positions with different shooters. The amount one leans into the shot or opens up the shoulders dramatically affects the draw length. Everyone has their own comfort zones, My son is 6'2" and draws right about at 28" with any bow that has some shape in the grip, he use to draw a bit less with straight grips. I use to draw over 28" with recurves and 27" with longbows, but I have found that I am more accurate with a shorter draw regardless of the weight of the bow, 26&1/4" left hand with a straight Hill grip and 26&1/2" right hand with a straight Hill grip. I am also better at quick bunny and wing shots with a shorter draw.

Makes sense to me. I actually shoot better at a slightly shorter draw length as well. Go figure. Have been shooting the last few days at 29" much better consistency than nearly 30"

Cavscout9753 · April 04, 2015, 08:12:00 PM

Not many pages ago I was disbelieving of Pavan's draw length findings. With the new hill bow I am shooting I have found (after 2 punishing days at 10# more weight) that the slightly hunched swing draw where I barely touch anchor works well. As I pull through the draw my finger tags my lip.. (Causing me to not dip on that side when shooting). It felt "wrong" at first, but after a couple of hours this particular shooting method feels very natural - from raising, drawing, anchor/release, to follow through. I fought it and fought it, coming from recurves and R/D bows, but in the end the hill style bows like to be shot how they want to.

April 05, 2015, 01:40:00 AM

I never claim that someone else's findings should be the same as mine, but it is more often than not the simple physics of the process.

sou-pawbowhunter · April 06, 2015, 09:30:00 PM

Do any among you have experience with the Pearson 'Ole Ben longbow? I just came across an ad for a used one at what seems to be a good price. I was wondering what kind of manners they have.

David Mitchell · April 06, 2015, 09:47:00 PM

Yeah, I had one--unfortunately. I hear guys talk about hand shock that rattles their teeth--the only bow I ever had that did that was a Pearson Ole Ben. :eek:

Linwood Hines · April 06, 2015, 10:40:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Macatawa:
A couple months back I ordered a new one.....difference being the tooling. Same basic design and high quality leather.

This one will belong to my 5YO son Kai. By then it will have taken on its own personality.

Here 'tis...

Cedar Ridge Leather Works is a Trad Gang Sponsor.

Art Vincent. the man behind the craft is an amazing artist and an all-around good guy!

Cedar Ridge builds quivers for Ron LaClair.....that outta tell you something..

I hope this picture comes up again - that is absolutely world-class art - beautiful! I would put it on and go outside in the moonlight and gaze at the glow! Well, I hope you know what I mean...

Jim Picarelli · April 07, 2015, 04:11:00 AM

I have an Ol' Ben. It has some shock but they're really accurate bows. I put a d97 12 strand padded to 20 in the loops with b50 and she's pretty well behaved now. I shoot it regularly a couple times a week.
It us heavier in mass weight than a Hill but the limbs are flat and wider than most Hills and Hill styles

April 07, 2015, 02:27:00 PM

I shot a Pearson longbow that was old at that time, 1966. It was painted brown and green, and it followed the string a bit. I was in awe of the man that owned it, I watched him from a hill, he belly crawled a bit at a time for about 80 yards along a fence. When the time was right, he came up on one knee with the bow flat and he shot the 3x4 buck that I was watching. Nothing special about the buck, but how he got it was very impressive to a 15 year old kid. I shot that bow a few times, it took everything I had to get it back to my 28" draw that I thought that I had to have at the time. I am sure it kicked like a mule with that bowsight target form I had back then, but I do not remember that.

sou-pawbowhunter · April 07, 2015, 04:54:00 PM

Thanks for sharing guys. I have only seen one picture of the bow in question, so I don't really know how the cross section of the limb compares to our beloved Hills. Might be time to call the seller.

Cavscout9753 · April 07, 2015, 08:18:00 PM

So, question for the group - but I don't want it to go the wrong direction so I will phrase it very carefully. Do any of you find that you shoot ASLs bows better towards the top of your weight scale? And I'm not saying "heavy bows", just towards the top of whats heavier for you. I tried a heavier recurve some time ago, but with holding at anchor I was just fighting the weight. Now as I delve into swing/snap shooting the added weight seems to help with a cleaner release at (what is now my) full draw. I picked up my Vixen to replicate the shooting and it didn't work as well. Again, i'm not talking about any specific weight - it doesn't matter, just "heavier" for you. It could all be in my head, and I'm sure its been covered before, but I can't find it.

April 08, 2015, 11:01:00 AM

I used to always shoot bows from 64 to 96 pounds at my draw length. My daily exercise was to work out with my chest pull with extra springs added or draw two 64 pound Schulz longbows at the same time twenty pulls left side and twenty pulls right side. The 64 pound bows for years felt like toys, but when I would try to shoot light weight bows of 55 pounds or less, my form would fly apart. My analogy is the one empty bucket mixed in a fire bucket brigade line of full buckets. When getting handed the empty bucket the fireman would throw it in the air expecting more weight. When I started dropping away from the heavy bows I needed to do it step at time. When I was forced to shoot light bows, due to a couple of injuries, one from lifting weights and another from getting hit at stop sign, I had to learn to draw slower and think about planting my anchor. I shot a doe that weighed 150 pounds with a 36 or 37 pound Hill at the exact same spot that I killed a similar sized buck with a 96 pound bow two years earlier. The only difference was the amount of pass through.
When shooting a lighter bow, I had to ask myself is my release going to be based on my full draw form out of habit, or is it going to be based on my full draw aim. Once I got that notion planted in my head, it was easier to shoot the lighter bows. One of the flaws of the Hill form is that it is so automatic and fluid that one has to work at keeping the form consistent. It is very tempting for the automatic pilot to let things get more and more fluid, to a point where the draw length, anchor and power lines start to degenerate. If your symptoms are similar to mine, I would suggest to concentrate, when practicing in close, on trying to have your release become aim motivated without greatly altering your natural shooting rhythm. You may need to slow your drawing speed down a little at first.

Cavscout9753 · April 08, 2015, 11:21:00 AM

Great insight pavan, as always. I actually spoke to Brian (brianlocal3) last night about it. I spent some time watching the Schulz videos and then Brian's shooting videos. Schulz being a swing/snap shooter, Brian being a more hold-at-anchor type shooter. As Brian said, and I agree whole heartedly, there is no real "the form" to achieve; some basic principals sure, but what matters is hitting your intended target. I only bring all of this up because since going up in weight the swing/snap style felt very good (and effective!); albeit a little unfamiliar at first. The release has been very, for a lack of a better term, "crisp". I find with a long bow the longer I hold at anchor the more varied my shot ended up, but with the higher weight the string pulls away cleanly once anchor is reached. Again, I was aiming the question more at the "snap" shooters and "swing" shooters, but I don't see why a heavy (relative to the shooter) bow wouldn't be the same for an archer holding at draw.

April 08, 2015, 11:52:00 AM

I shoot my best if I release right when my anchor has tightened in. More of a hit anchor and pull through to the release thing than an anchor hold and aim then release thing. What I have to watch for if that anchor is getting lighter and varied, because soon after that I find myself dipping into the anchor more and more, which eventually will give me softer releases. It is the most fun shooting when it all clicks in place with no thought, but I do need to check up on myself a few shots everyday to keep it that way.