Tuning up some surewood shafts to my Belcher Longhorn 52# @ 29" reflex/deflex longbow and have a couple questions. I draw about 29 3/4" and the arrows are all full length - 31 1/4" back of point. Really can't trim much - maybe 1/4" at most but would prefer not to trim at all Also shooting 160 grain tips and I want to keep this weight. The test pack I got from surewood includes 60-65, 65-70, 70-75 and I have the arrows all fletched. I am paper tuning these arrows and this is the first time I have done this. With the carbons I used to shoot I always bare shaft tuned. Shooting at 8' and 14' I am getting a slightly nock high and left. I have just about gotten rid of the nock high but the nock left is showing with all 3 spine groups. The 70-75 is the best but still has a 3/4" or so tear. Should I pad the riser out a little bit to compensate or will I need to go to a 75-80?

I am almost positive it is a nock point issue.  No way 70-75s are week

Yes. Your arrows are 3 inches longer than the spine spacing (28 inches), 160 is heavier than standard 125's. You are using a close to center cut modern bow (spine rating is about right for self bows) plus you have a long draw. You could easily need heavier spine to get best flight. Carbon arrows are stiff (55/75's spine 70#) and more forgiving of spine inaccuracy than wood.

Try padding the riser and if that makes better flight then you need heavier spine.

I have a 60# BW recurve that takes 90/95 wood arrows with my 27" draw.

Not sure why you couldn't, or wouldn't want to, trim the arrows, which would stiffen them.  Based on your specs, trimming 1/2" off would still leave you an inch longer than your draw length.

I was trying to bare shaft with the same test kit for a 52#@ 28" pulling 29". After trying everything from 125-190 up front, I finally took my good friends advice. Put some feathers on them, and go with what flys straight. I had more than one person tell me bare shafting with wood is almost impossible. It doesn't make sense that the physics would change any by changing the material, but after days of getting varied results from every combo, I started fletching shafts, and ended up with 60-65 with 160 up front.
I do get a weird flyer every now in then if my release is off, but most of the time they're flying pretty good. Not the darts I was hoping for, but they're going where I want them to. The next dozen shafts I get will be tapered, I hear they're much easier to tune.

Make sure you check bh flight.  65# is way light for me with a 56# rd bow, same dl and 125 grn points.

Thanks guys. I ran out of light last night so I will try padding out the riser today and see what that does. I didn't want to cut much because from what I could tell the point was very close to my finger. This morning I threw a paper clip on one of the arrows and it turns out my draw is longer than I thought. Only had about 1/4" from my finger to the point or about 3/4" past the bow. If I have to pad out more than a layer or two I will just order a dozen 75-80s and fletch them up and do what it takes to get them flying correct. I know broadheads are the final step in the tuning process just figured I would get as close as I can with the paper and field points. Appreciate the help

Tyler you will defiantly need a stiffer spine HIGH 70s to LOW 80 spines should be close

even the elite olympic style archery coaching manuals say that less than 1'' Tear is acceptable. yes i would tune by building out the strike plate. may only be 1/16 or 1/8 in it.

im assuming you are standing 6 or so yards from the paper, thats what the coaching manuals I've read call for

I'm having a hard time thinking a stiffer shaft is the solution. 70-75's were coming of my bow almost sideways, and we have very similar bows and draw lengths. Considering I ended up with 160 gr. on the 60-65's, I could possibly go down to a 55-60 with less point weight. I know some bows can be picky when it comes to what they'll shoot well, and some will shoot a variety of arrows equally well.
Let us know what you end up with.

bite the bullet and get some stiffer test shafts.
It's worth doing right.

Well I padded out the shelf a 1/16" or so (paperclip and layer of tape) and that helped some. I think I am going to get a pack of broadheads I am going to shoot (Simmons Safari) and put 2 on and have 2 field points and shoot them and see how that turns out with the 70-75s. If they won't group then I will order a dozen 75-80s instead of another test pack that will have most of the shafts too stiff for me. I also shot all 3 spine groups fletched at 20 yards and the 70-75 definitely flew the best. The weaker shafts all had a noticeable wag on the way to the target. Once I try out the broadheads Ill post up what I find out.

not sure what type of wood you're using...
But "fletcher" ( Rick Stillman) at the feathered shaft  http://www.thefeatheredshaft.com/arrows.php

sells spine test arrows one at a time...some other guys might also.
Might be worth it to make sure about spine before taking a chance on a whole doz...just food for thought...