Looking to get a set of hunting arrows for my kodiak mag. The bow is 45@28 and i draw 27.5. A bow weight scale reads 44 lbs at my draw. I know this is a fairly light setup but i shoot it better than my other bows. What would be a good arrow and broadhead setup for this bow. I have a bear weather rest on it also, which seems to make it more forgiving. So, anyone have a similar setup, and would you hunt with it even though its a little light? Thanks Matt

It also has a d97 string. forgot to mention that.

GT Trads in 3555 and 200 to 225 up front. Your bow isn't too light for any deer sized game.

Thanks  Damsel, What length would you cut them?. Also how would you add the weight? I was thinking of using heavy field points and using an adaptor and glue on broadhead. Or would i be better off using brass inserts? Thanks again .

Thanks  Damsel, What length would you cut them?. Also how would you add the weight? I was thinking of using heavy field points and using an adaptor and glue on broadhead. Or would i be better off using brass inserts? Thanks again .

Douglas Fir cut 28" BOP, 50-54 for a 125 gr point; 55-59 for a 160.  If you want a lighter arrow, go with Sitka Spruce, same spines.

Thanks , i was seriously considering wood as an option, but i don't have the equipment or know how to make them. Anyone know a good place to buy finished wood arrows?

I would try the arrow dynamics trad lights. My second choice would be a 500 spine Easton axis traditional shaft. Either shaft should work, and your bow's draw weight is plenty for deer and turkey.

Surewood Shafts douglas fir shafts are top notch, and they are great to deal with. I'd check em out. I bought 100 shafts from them and couldn;t be happier.

Thanks folks, I am thinking of just buying the things i need for building some wood arrows. I watched a video, and alot less things are needed than i thought. I have a few questions. Do you have to dip them, or can you rub finish on them also? And do you have to stain, or can you just seal them? What seal would be best? Also, will fletching tape with glue on the front and back work on wood? Sorry for all these questions . I appreciate yours guys responses. Matt

Making arrows doesn't take much equipment: fletching jig, heat source for points and usually a taper tool of some sort.  I recommend having your supplier at least cut the nock tapers as these are pretty important to good arrow flight and iffy to do really well with a hand held taper tool.  They can also cut to length and point taper, but then you are stuck with that length.  Point taper trueness is important, too, but you can work with the points to get them properly aligned.  I like Kimsha hot melt for points, but epoxy works good too.  It is VERY IMPORTANT to clean the inside of the point before installing.

The shaft finish can be wiped or brushed on just as well as dipped.  A good oil base polyurethane like Minwax or Zar works great, gloss is the toughest.  Stain looks nice but is not at all necessary.  Fletch tape works but I much prefer Duco glue and you will need this for the nocks anyway.

You can also use the water base polyurethanes altho if find them to not be as tough or water resistant as the oil base.  Many folks are very happy with the water base and it is nice to work with and doesn't smell much if using it in the house.  Duco works great with it, too.  As for stains, I recommend using water base with a water base finish; and oil base with oil base.