How do most of you tune? I have been punching number into the Stu's arrow calculator and am seeing that the current arrows I am shooting are WAY off for my bow. Do most of you paper tune, bareshaft, other? Is there a section here that deals with tuning? Do you adjust arrow length, point weight or other factors. thanks

I start with Stu. It gets me in the ballpark. Then bareshaft. Adjusting tip weight.

I have tried both, but I have more confidence in my results with the bare shaft method. Adjusting length and point weight gets me there.

Go to ACS Archery, then "knowledge base" and it will explain the bare shaft tuning method to you.

I pick an arrow I want that is around my spine and work from there, most of my friends were shooting real heavy spined arrows for 3-D, until they saw me shooting light spined arrows and getting real good performance, now for 3-D they shoot light spined arrow too. When I get good arrow flight, I then check with a paper tune.

I am going to try bare shafting for the first time, I have some new 1535's on the way and will do it with them, then if I get that right I'll try it on my 3555's for hunting.

bareshaft all the way

I have bareshafted for years,it works for me!

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

*Find the arrow you want to shoot.
*Decide what kind of weight you want up front.
*Glue the insert in the front.
*Remove nock and cut the BACK end off the shaft at least two inches longer than your draw length.
*Replace nock.
*Shoot the bare shaft from ten yards.
*One or a combination of things will happen. The nock will either be left or right, high or low. If it goes knock high or low--adjust your knock accordingly. If it goes left or right it means you are overspined or underspined.    
*Remove a half inch at a time off the BACK end of the shaft until it flies straight.
*You should be able to engineer a shaft that will fly beautifully from twenty yards--every time you shoot it.
*Flight will be so perfect that you will wonder why you want feathers on the thing.
*This method will give you confidence in your arrow like nothing else.

Bare shaft at 15 and 20 yards (dont forget to put some rubber bands on the end of the shaft to imitate the feathers weight) ,after this,I make an arrow with a broadhead,wet completly the feathers and shoot it at differents yards to chek if the fly is correct.

I start with an arrow close to spin then start buying bows till find one that likes the arrow lol. I try to tune the arrow to the bow....

Stabow, funny, many of us are guilty of that.

Bareshaft planing for me. Then fine tune with broadhead.

QuoteOriginally posted by stabow:
I start with an arrow close to spin then start buying bows till find one that likes the arrow lol. I try to tune the arrow to the bow....    

I like a man who can laugh at his own faults. I think you are one of a large crowd of us. Otherwise, the classifieds would be pretty barren  

I am a paper tune kind of guy.  I stand 15-20 feet back to let the arrow paradox around the riser.  I don't know if it is my string hand or something else but bare shaft tuning for me always hits tail up regardless of knock pt.
All my  bows can be tuned to the same shafts but the points vary from 175gr to 300 depending on the bow.

Bare shaft tuning for me.  I do it by comparing impact points between bare shafts and fletched shafts.  The ACS bows website has a nice outline of the process.