GT Trads 3555 or 5575

acollins · February 28, 2013, 02:05:00 PM

I know you guys are tired of these questions but he we go again. I purchased a dozen GT Trad 3555's after running through Stu Millers calculator it seems that I am really borderline whether to go with a 3555 or a 5575. I am wanting to be atleast 10gpp and with the 3555 I cannot seem to get there. With the 5575 I can. I know there is more to pay attention to than GPP, so I will let the more experienced on here lead me in the right direction. Bow Specs as below.

Timberhawk Falcon
50#@28"
Drawing 28"
Fast Flight string
bow cut just past center with side plate is center.
3-5" feathers
I am wanting to shoot 125 grain 2 blade with either 50 or 100 grain brass inserts.

I hope I gave all necessary info.

Thanks in advance!!

awbowman · February 28, 2013, 02:42:00 PM

A better solution if you are borderline is to go to CE Hertitage 150s. They are slightly stiffer than the 3555s and weigh 10.1 gpi which should get you to your 10gpp

StickSlinger74 · February 28, 2013, 02:55:00 PM

I shoot a full length GT Trad 3555 out of my bow at 49@28.5 with 3 4" feathers, a standard insert and 175 gr head. Fly like darts. The 5575s were always too stiff for my liking. Total arrow weight is 490. Exactly 10 gpp.

LKH · February 28, 2013, 02:56:00 PM

If you want to part w/the GT's, PM me and we'll talk. I use them, but with my 26" draw I can stick 225 up front and still cut them a bit long.

sawtoothscream · February 28, 2013, 02:59:00 PM

My titan with 50# dryad epic limbs tuned perfect with a 5575 cut to maybe 28-28" with 145 gr tips and the standard insert. my draw is around 27.5"

threeunder · February 28, 2013, 03:18:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by awbowman:
A better solution if you are borderline is to go to CE Hertitage 150s. They are slightly stiffer than the 3555s and weigh 10.1 gpi which should get you to your 10gpp

x2

gonefishing600 · February 28, 2013, 08:47:00 PM

I shoot GT Traditionals, and also own a lot of different other arrow manufacture's makes and models. I have used Stu Miller's calculator numerous times. I would suggest that you be careful with how you use Stu Miller's calculator.

In some instances it is accurate and in other it is off. Therefore, it should only be used as a guide line. And then only you should have the final determination.

Please allow me to analyze!

Timberhawk Falcon
50#@28"
Drawing 28"
Fast Flight string
bow cut just past center with side plate is center.
3-5" feathers
I am wanting to shoot 125 grain 2 blade with either 50 or 100 grain brass inserts.

1.Your bow is cut past center, 50# @ 28".
2.You want 175 to 225 grain up front.
3.Your draw is 28"

Just the fact that your bow is cut past center tells me you need a stiff shaft, along with the 50# draw weight, would definitely tell me you don't need a 3555/.500. You may even need 7595/.340 with the 5" feathers, depending on the length of your arrow.

But minimum would be 5575, or I will eat my hat!

Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Shawn Leonard · February 28, 2013, 09:05:00 PM

29.5" 35/55 with 50 grain brass insert and 125 grain head for 175 up front(maybe a tad more) will get ya about perfect as far as spined right but a bit short on the 10gpp. I shoot 9 gpp. and it kills anything I hunt just as dead as 10 gpp. I shoot the 35/55s cut to 29.5"s with 175-190 grains up front, out of most of my bows from 52-54#s at my 28.5" draw and they are high performance recurves cut past center. Shawn

gonefishing600 · February 28, 2013, 09:08:00 PM

Well, there you go!

I would love to know how this turns out!

Good luck.

McDave · February 28, 2013, 09:46:00 PM

I agree Bruce. A calculator is a good place to start, but the only thing that will tell you what arrow you ought to be shooting is bare shaft testing. I shoot exclusively GT arrows when I shoot carbon, and have matched them to many bows. For me, 50# is a crossover point. Some 50# bows test better for me with 3555's and others test better with 5575's. Anything heavier than 50# always tests better with some configuration of 5575's (I don't go higher than 60#). Anything lighter always tests better with 3555's or something weaker.

It is such a pleasure to bare shaft test, I don't know why anyone wouldn't do it.

xtrema312 · March 01, 2013, 12:26:00 AM

You are at a real borderline area from what I have found. At least it is for me. For me it is very bow dependent, and I can't calculate exactly rather I can make a 3555 work or not. Often it is too light when I get tuned. Other times despite what I calculate I get a bow that they work for. 29" 3555 with 50 plus 125 could be real close. Could take some side plate tweaking, brace or even adding some more silencer material and you may get something around 9 gpp.

I find the 3555 to be a bit weak compared to some other 500's. CE150 tends to fill this gap a little better using standard inserts and little longer shaft.

You may get a 5575 to do it, but you are going to need a longer arrow and 100 insert and a lot more than 125 point. I usually need to get up to about 55 pounds and cut past center before the 5575 really starts shooting nice.

You can't calculate everything. Too many factors to calculate.

You have the 3555 so get bare shafting with one and see if you can make it work.

Flying Dutchman · March 01, 2013, 02:37:00 AM

I'd say you will be good with the 3555, depending on how you cut them and what frontload.
5575 will be a higher in GPP and allows you to use EFOC if that is what you are after.

FYI:

On my 45 lbs very fast longbow, close to centercut, 45lbs @ 29 inch (my drawlength) I use GT 1535's. BOP 30.5, standard insert and nock, 100 grains fieldtip, crowndipped and 5"fletching.
According tu Stu I am a little bit underspined.

I bareshafted them at 20 yards and they fly great.

UrbanDeerSlayer · March 01, 2013, 07:55:00 AM

I shoot a center cut r/d longbow 46@27". I have trouble tuning 3555's. Went to full length 5575 trade with 100g insert and 125g tip. Bareshafts perfectly out to 20 yds. With the 5575s you can leave them full length and mess with tip weight then if it's too weak start cutting to stiffen it up. But I'll bet you'll be able to time the 5575 especially if you are past center cut.

March 01, 2013, 11:21:00 AM

I shoot 50# at my 29.5" DL and use 55/75's. My shafts are 32" and I use a 150gr brass insert and a 150gr point/broadhead.

Bisch

nontypical · March 03, 2013, 11:45:00 PM

I shoot footed 3555s wrapped w/3-4" fletch outta my Black Widows & Bob Lees 45-53#. Up front usually sits 200-250 grns. If not mistaken Ron(Sharpster) weighed one at 550 grns.

LostNation_Larry · March 04, 2013, 05:22:00 AM

The good news is you have LOTS of options for tweaking GT shafts. Personally I would start with the cheapest and work my way up until I found what I liked.

With your existing shafts you could put 20 or 50 grains behind the 100 grain inserts (only if you use GT inserts) and you will get your 500 grains, assuming a 29" arrow. Every 1" will add 8.6 grains but also affects spine. If spine is too week, build out the side plate. If is it too still (probably not the case with your 3555's) switch out side plate with calf hair rest. Of course there are weight tubes also.

I would play around with your existing 3555's and see what you can do. If you cannot get them to work the way you want you will at least learn something in the process and education is not a bad thing.

DaveT1963 · March 04, 2013, 08:29:00 AM

my vote is for 35/55s - they fly best out of my bow (51# at 27.5 inches and I pull 28) JD Berry Vixen (1/8 inch past center). Yes 55/75s will fly out of that bow but they tend to bareshaft with a nock right and at 20 yars about 2 to 3 inches left of fletched arrow. 33/55s fly straight and hit along with my fletched shafts. I shoot 100 grain insert with 175 grain broadheads.