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Arrow taper guide block - opinions wanted

Started by Bob B., February 18, 2013, 10:52:00 PM

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Bob B.

3 Rivers sells them.  I can not get blades for my true taper tool anymore.  Also for Bambo and Sitka arrows the blades do not work so well.

I am looking for opinions as to how well this block works ... do you like it or not, etc.

Thanks,

Bob.
66"  Osage Royale    57lbs@29
68"  Shrew Hill      49lbs@29
68"  Deathwish       51lbs@29
68"  Morning Star    55lbs@29
68"  Misty Dawn      55lbs@29

Green

Do a search here for Taper Jig.  You've got options.
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

WESTBROOK

Bob, ya got a router with a V bit and a protractor?

YES? - make one


Bob B.

I wish I did, I have belt sander ... that is about it.  Most of tools are in the chainsaw department.

Good looking jig!

Bob.
66"  Osage Royale    57lbs@29
68"  Shrew Hill      49lbs@29
68"  Deathwish       51lbs@29
68"  Morning Star    55lbs@29
68"  Misty Dawn      55lbs@29

UrbanDeerSlayer

QuoteOriginally posted by WESTBROOK:
Bob, ya got a router with a V bit and a protractor?

YES? - make one

 
I see the taper jig on the disc sander. What is the set up on the belt sander for?
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

WESTBROOK


UrbanDeerSlayer

QuoteOriginally posted by WESTBROOK:
Putting on a rear shaft taper.
Do you have a full picture of the set up for rear shaft taper on he belt sander? Im curious as to how you maintain the proper angle to get a gradual taper down to the nock end. Are you tapering from 11/32 to 5/16? Thanks
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

Maxx Black

Westbrook, if you could ,Please post some hints and tips on belt sander , how you spin arrow and how to be consistent in obtaining same measurement on tip from arrow to arrow. Please and Thank You, Ken
Kwyk Styk 58" 55x28
Cari-bow 62"54@28
Thunder child 56" 53@27
Bigfoot Sasquatch SS ILF 60"@55#@27"

WESTBROOK

UDS...the little piece of luan has a small hole drilled in it, I lay a 5/16 (2018) shaft on the belt and line it up with the hole, this sets the nock diameter.



Then I just put some light pencil marks at 9-10" up the shaft. Fire up the sander, put the nock point in the hole and slowly lower the shaft(constantly rotating it) onto the belt. Keep lowering the shaft till you reach you marks on the shaft...thats it.

Probably the most critical part is to make sure your shafts are ABSOLUTELY STRAIGHT as possible.




Maxx Black

Westbrook !  A huge Thank You! I have been trying to rig something up for this , and this is exactly what I needed. I'm off to the races now . Ken
Kwyk Styk 58" 55x28
Cari-bow 62"54@28
Thunder child 56" 53@27
Bigfoot Sasquatch SS ILF 60"@55#@27"

2treks

Chuck your shaft into a drill motor to rotate the shaft. Pay attention and be careful.
CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

WESTBROOK

Sure,

I wouldnt suggest trying to use a drill or anything else to spin the shaft, the weight will tend to bow the shaft and will lead to inconsistencies. With a little practice you will do just fine spinning them by hand.

You can move the shaft from side to side on the belt while gringing without effecting anything and you wont clog the belt in front of the nock whole.

Glad I can help!

Eric

WESTBROOK

Chuck, I tried that...with the weight of the drill, you wont know your slightly bowing the shaft.

Eric

Zradix

I'm surprised you cant get blades anymore..

I have a tru-center taper tool and a bear paw.

The bearpaw worked GREAT on my Hildebrand spruce.
The tru-center just chewed the heck outta them..with brand new blades.
The tru-center holds the blades at a slightly different angle than the bearpaw...maybe this is the difference.

I have a taper block that I used when I was shooting ash. Same kind 3r sells..mighta got it from them.

It worked ok...at least it was something for a guide.
The biggest problem I had was my ryobi sander's table wasn't very steady. Spent more time finding ways to steady the table mount than anything else.

If you want the block I'll send it to you.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

2treks

Maybe so Eric, I can see how it sure could bow.
I do mine on my edge sander and operate in the vertical not horizontal. I don't/can't use a block on my nock end so I have to take great care in checking my size as I approach my pencil lines. I think your set up would be better controled than mine.
A 6"X80" maybe overkill for wood arrows.
You can ruin a shaft in a hurry tho.

CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

UrbanDeerSlayer

Thanks for the posts Westbrook. Now I'm definitely going to get a disc/ belt sander, that I've been thinking about getting anyway. Never thought about tapering shafts on the belt side, excellent!
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

two4hooking

Here is jig for rear tapers.  

Chuck the shaft up in a drill and spin it through angle iron with 1 inch sanding belts glued on the faces....

Still looking for a inexpensive disk sander for nock tapers.

WESTBROOK

Chuck, does the edge sander have a bed or table that you rest your stock on? I'd just drill & tap a hole to screw down a piece of angle iron up snug to the belt.

Eric

2treks

I have clamped a block to the table but it seem like accuracy is harder to maintain with a "fence" on this machine. My machine is a wood eating hog. I like the finer ability of the smaller belt.
CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

WESTBROOK

Yea, an 80" sander would make a shaft vanish if your not carefull. LOL


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