I just bought some Gold tip 35/55 blems and was hoping i made the right decision,. i am hoping i can shoot these out of  
most of my bows. I have a 27" draw and my bows are a 60" 48# @28' Mojostik, a Dwyer Dauntless 62"  52# @27", another Dwyer Original 64" 55# @ 28", and a 56" Cascade Brushawk 53# @ 28". These will be for target and 3d only, i plan on Surewood shafts for hunting. I am hoping to end up with about a 29" arrow, and around a 125-145 gr. head. Will these arrows be the right spine for my bows, i thought the 55/75 would be too stiff. What length should i start at, no one in my little town who cuts arrows so i will have to bring somewhere else or try myself. What do you guys think?  Thanks  Dave

The only way to tell is to shoot them full length and start removing them a little at a time.

I shoot through paper with a bare shaft and cut until I am getting bullet holes.

My 20some years experience with carbons tells me that they will probable not work for all your bows. I tried them with a 49@28 SAX widow and a 45@28 ACS longbow and they were too week for both at my draw of 27inch at that low draw weight. They may work with the 48lb bow but my guess is they may be too weak for the rest of your bows. I shoot the 55-75 with 53lb@28 CHX widows at 26.5 to 27 inch draw and they are 28inch long with 100gr brass insert and 125gr head.   Widow

Just ran it quickly through St Millers Calculator and I think you might be close.

As Rick said start out full length and trim them back. According to the calculator going with the 145 grain tip and 30.5 inches will get you ball park.

My personal experience is I can put way more weight up front than the calculator says once I have the length right.


I am no expert but I usually cut two fletched arrows and one bare shaft and once they start grouping together from as far away as I can get a group I figure the spine is right.

Oh and with no archery shops nearby I cut my own arrows with a hacksaw. I put some tape on to help stop splitting and cut and rotate as I get through. Be gentle though!

As you have already bought the arrows you have nothing to lose by giving it a go.

Good luck

Thanks, i cant seem to get Stu Millers calculator to download, the old or new revised. I was going to buy from Bigjims, all he had left were like the 75/95 on his web page. So i checked **** and found some on there, maybe should have talked to someone first. I have been checking on here and found most in the 50lb range shooting 35/55. Hope they work, can i use fletching tape on these arrows?

Buy some 5/16" 50 and 100 grain brass inserts from Big Jim, hot-glue them in and add your points - the 35/55s should shoot great with one of these two inserts.

Yes, fletching tape works great, on these, wipe the shaft with rubbing alcohol, dry, and just stick the feathers down with your jig clamp, press & rub your finger down the feather, dab a spot of glue on the ends of each feather, and let them dry overnight.

Shooting only field tips, those arrows should do well with most of your set ups. Broadheads tell the real story. They are a little light for the heavier bows, but at 27" you will probably do well.
You can always adjust the sight plate out a little to make them shoot on the heavier bows if need be.
good luck, bigjim

So i shouldnt use the inserts that come with the shafts. I weighed them and they are like 12gr. if i use 50-100 gr i will weaken the spine more, correct, isnt that the opposite of what i want, if some feel they are too weak? I was thinking the inserts that came with them and cutting them down to 28.5 or 29in. to add more spine.

Mooshkat- you are correct in your thinking.
As stated above, I would start out full length with the provided inserts. If they are too stiff, you can add more tip weight, or go to the brass inserts. If they are too weak, you can stay with the inserts provided, and start to shorten them to stiffen them up.
Your only way of knowing what will work for you for sure is to shoot them, and see what you have.
I think these arrows can be used for your setups.

i was going to hotmelt the inserts in, is there a temporary way to install them?

Wrapping the inserts with clear saran wrap works good for testing.

thanks for all your help guys.  Dave