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Tips for Small Game

Started by RedStag5728, November 28, 2012, 09:51:00 AM

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RedStag5728

Hey all, I just ordered me some flu flu feathers from 3rivers and I have some old gold tip 55/75 shafts that I originally bought to go with my longbow but the feathers were all worn out.

So I decided to strip the feathers (5 shafts in all) and I am going to make them into some dual flu flu arrows for small game (mostly squirrels). I bare shaft tuned these arrows and they are flying straight and true at 20 yards with a 250 grain tip (175 and 200 were shooting still a little stiff).

I am planning on ordering some 100 grain brass inserts and then shooting a 150 grain head. What head type do you guys like for small game (mostly squirrels)? Field tips or blunt tips? I was thinking just the field tips but I want to hear you guys' preference.

Thanks,

Randy
Randy
CTA RedStag LB 64" ntn 57# @ 28"
Hickory SB (#2) 64" ntn 43# @ 28"
Hickory East Woodland SB 65# @ 27"
Darkside Laminated LB 50# @ 28"
Darkside Laminated LB 37# @ 28"

redpepper49

fletch with reg feathers . The will dodge the flu flu arrows . Use some kind of small game point that won't stick into a limb. For shots on the ground I like judos or broad heads .

Orion

I use hex head blunts and old broadheads for squirrels.  Hex heads when they're in the trees and broadheads when I catch them on the ground. Might want to fletch some of your arrows normally, at least for ground shots, and perhaps trim a few flu-flus so they travel a little faster/further than normal.  Squirrels are tough to kill and you need to hit them as hard as you can. Rabbits and game birds die rather easily. I don't think field points are a good choice for any hunting.

RedStag5728

Thanks for the response. I could fletch a single flu flu which would make it a little faster, would that work?
Randy
CTA RedStag LB 64" ntn 57# @ 28"
Hickory SB (#2) 64" ntn 43# @ 28"
Hickory East Woodland SB 65# @ 27"
Darkside Laminated LB 50# @ 28"
Darkside Laminated LB 37# @ 28"

Jerry Jeffer

I used a spiral flu flu on theses, but missed plenty because of it. This was a spiral turkey tail feather. I say go with regular fletch as well.
 

Any of the mentioned points or heads work well. Field points are just that, good for target practice. Or, unless you modify them, but then it isn't a field point anymore.

 

Something like this is good too.


and ya hope to end up with this.
I will give thanks to the LORD because of his righteousness and will sing praise to the name of the LORD Most High.

Gdpolk

I do a lot of small game hunting, I actually prefer squirrel hunting to any other kind.  I set all of my arrows up to use 125 screw in points specifically so that I can use my favorite small game head and Judo's.  I then use 100 grain inserts to bring up the weight up front.

First, don't fletch them all as flu-flu's.  Flu-Flu's are great for shots into a tree under 20 yards.  Past 20 yards or so, the squirrels will start to dodge your arrows.  For ground shots or shots where the squirrel is hanging on a tree trunk, I use regularly fletched arrows.

Second, you'll probably want TWO kinds of heads for hunting.  You'll want a couple arrows with a Judo point for shooting in areas that may be grassy and you'll want some arrows with some nice hunting blunts.  Don't use a field point, they just aren't as effective.  

The best blunt I've used is the RFA Talon followed by the VPA Small Game Thumper.  Pictures of both are below for you.  Why I really, really like the Talon:

1) It's small (doesn't tear up all the meat like a broadhead) and flies just like field points out of every bow I've tried them on.
2) The cup in the head helps to create massive blunt force trauma which is perfect for squirrel and rabbit.
3) The points at the front of the cup will "grab" whatever they hit so your blunt's force will be absorbed by the critter rather than your arrow glancing off of it on a less than ideal shot.
4) The pyramidal shape will make the heads easier to remove from stumps and help the arrow to skip off the ground rather than burying up under the leaves.
5) Made in the USA from tool steel which is hardened for ultra durability.

 
   


When I go out for small game...

If I take my bow quiver I bring:
2 Talon tipped regular arrows
1 Judo tipped regular arrow
1 Talon tipped Flu-Flu
1 Judo tipped Flu-Flu

If I go out with a back quiver I bring:
8 Talon tipped regular arrows
2 Judo tipped regular arrow
1 Talon tipped Flu-Flu
1 Judo tipped Flu-Flu
1pc and 2pc Sarrels Sierra Mountain Longbows - both 53.5lbs @ 29"

https://www.gpolkknives.com/

RedStag5728

Thanks! Well then I'll have to place another order into 3rivers to get the regular feathers and the points, which is fine because I was planning on making another order for a heavier broadhead for deer hunting and a new arrow plate/rest for my bow as it is getting kinda worn out.

Thanks for all the input!
Randy
CTA RedStag LB 64" ntn 57# @ 28"
Hickory SB (#2) 64" ntn 43# @ 28"
Hickory East Woodland SB 65# @ 27"
Darkside Laminated LB 50# @ 28"
Darkside Laminated LB 37# @ 28"

Gordon Jabben

Randy, are you confused yet.  What point to use on squirrels is always a lively debate and I will add my opinion.  I would go with a 23/64" field point on a broadhead adaptor with the 11 degree taper.  The large diameter field point is pretty good about not sticking in trees but will penatrate the tough hide of a squirrel which a blunt or judo will not always do.  Keeping the arrow in the squirrel is a must so he doesn't excape wounded.  I don't care for flu-flus but like regular fletch.


Joeabowhunter

I prefer the Ace hex head.  Price and performance is great on squirrels.

Recurve50 LBS

I like those home made heads Jerry uses above. They work well and are easy to make.
Larry W.

Member TANJ

NRA Life Member

56" 45#@28" Thunder Stick Mag
62" 45#@28" Turkey Creek Longbow
1966 42#@28" Bear Grizley

Mike Vines

Professional Bowhunters Society Regular Member

U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President


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