i hate tuning.
it seems to take me forever to tune. it took me about 2 months to tune my 69# recurve. now i have a new set of limbs for another bow which are 57#. i'm about 2 months into trying to get it tuned too. it puts me off shooting altogether.
i've been using OL adcock's method and always seem to end up with arrows that are to stiff.
problem is i can see when my barshafts are weak because they fly to the right. but i trim and trim and i can never seem to make them land to the left. i can bring them in to group with the broadheads but the problem is the broadheads fly terrible. no matter how much i trim i can't seem to be able to make my bareshafts act stiff.

so i decided to ditch bareshafts and put a wide 2 blade head on with a shaft length which i know is too weak and shoot and trim until the arrow flys well. we can all tell when our arrows are flying like laser beams and when they are not. so for now i'm doing this and it's getting close.

by the way i don't like tuning.

Post this on the Shooters Form Forum,and if you can film yourself and post it also.There are some very good coaches there that can help.I know from 50 years of shooting and some coaching,Ive learned to make very small changes when I tune.I too use to hate to tune,but after learning to take my time,and alot more experience I have fun now.Good luck and enjoy it its all part of shooting.

                       Meathook

Ozy I am the same way. I have had bows that I was able to bare shaft tune with out much effort then others that always showed weak.  Just like you I got sick of it and did the broad head tune.

That method works just fine.

Mine bare shaft slightly weak, with fletch they are lazers beams in flight and how they hit the target.  Fletch does stiffen an arrow , does'nt it?

They way I tune is a broadhead shaft and a field point shaft and when they are hitting together they will shoot like laser beam and I am tuned.

Could be a false weak?
Over spine enough and the tail can hit the riser window causing the arrow to fly/impact right.

Not exactly, but I more BH tune like Chris

While bare shaft tuning is a great tool for most people (I use it) it really is not that important how a bare shaft flies, after all none of us are going to be using bare shafts to hunt with anyway. The main goal is to have perfect flight with a broadhead arrow. If you put your broadheads on a shaft and they fly perfect, then it doesn't really matter what a bare shaft is doing as long as your fletched arrows fly good you are fine.

x2.

I do it the same way with fieldpoints. If a complete arrow with fletching flies great on 50 yards, I think it is tuned pretty well.

Last time I did bareshafting by coincidence: it was rainig that hard, that my fletching shrunk until almost nothing.

I didn't notice it, because I was focused on shooting, till my brother in bow told me: "That is a great way to bareshaft, because your feathers almosts dissapaered... and still hitting and flying lik leaserbeams on 50 yards, I recon they are just fine for that bow! "  
I think he was right....

QuoteOriginally posted by SteveB:
Could be a false weak?
Over spine enough and the tail can hit the riser window causing the arrow to fly/impact right.

Yup.

I was trying to tune up my little suckling yesterday day and had the same problem it was my index finger caching the string and giving a false reading so I stopped using it and just shot two under and I got great flight
Jim

Iam the same way cant bare shaft tuning I just find what type of arrows fly well useing broadheads found that bemans ics bow hunters 500 with 4in.sheild feathers @left wing with 125 woods man elite boradheads fly pretty good as well as the fleid pts the arrows are cut at 30"from the nock to the insert shoots pretty well from 5yds to 30 yds but thats just me also shoot 3fingers under

seems like a pretty good method to me.  The goal is to get the BH to fly like a laser, and if you are getting that then I see no need to bareshaft.  More people should do what you've done and tinker with their gear to see what works for them too.

Clint,

I tore my hair out in frustration until i took Dennis LaVarenne's advice and built my bow out to cut-to-centre. before that bareshaft arrows were perpetually weak.

with feathers, however, it was a different matter. GT5575s, 220 up front, 60# bow, cut past centre bareshafted weak but paper tuned into bullet holes!!

I have given up on 5575s for my 60# martin. Im now using 7595s, 220 up front. bloody beauty!

cheers

I also am not a fan of tunning and always have at least a few times that confuse me. Going forward with other bows I am just going to tune my broadheads with my field tips and call that good once they are flying like darts and hitting where I want I'll be happy

I shoot big, wide two blade broadheads (Zwickey Deltas), and when both my field points and broadheads are hitting dead on, I am done tuning. It usually doesn't take all that long. Although I may tweak a bit with point weight or inserts, I don't usually need to cut shafts after that.

I gave up on bare shafting after much the same experience.  Now paper tuning is a different story.  Tuned two different shafts to a bow last night and only took about 10 minutes to get both shooting bullet holes.

Id bet the arrow was too stiff all along. Carbon is funny like that. Try a weaker spine and I bet youll be surprised how well it flies.

I hate tuning too, Clint did you try building out your side plate?  If your arrows are showing weak that's the fastest, cheapest place to start.

I havent shot a bare shaft in about 10 yrs. I know what arrow should be close and then broadhead/fieldpoint fine tune as per OL till its spot on........