Im shooting a BW PSA that is 52@28. I draw about 27.5". Right handed. Arrows are 55-60 surewood shafts from snag. They are cut to 30 inches. At first I had 160 grains up front, and it showed nock right/overspined. So I gave 200 grains up front a try. Now it showed way nock right. Is there something Im missing because everything I seen says nock right is overspined, but it got worse with more point weight.

As a test, I short drew a few shot by an inch and arrow flight was straighter, not perfect, but better. So whats the key? Do I need to move my brace height? If so, should I increase or decrease brace?

With the added weight, it should not have increased the nock right.  I would go back to the original setup and try moving the brace height as much as 3/8 of an inch in both directions and see what happens.

I had a similiar situation and increased my brace height until it took the bad flight away.

Black Widow bows like heavy spined arrows.  From what you are telling us, the arrows are (limber) under spined.  I would go with at least a 70/75 with a 30" arrow shooting that wt.  

You are way, way underspined with that set up. You might be able to get by with 28" BOP (you draw 27.5) and a 125 gn point; even that might be under.

What Bjorn and Paul said.

If he is right handed and they are bareshafting to the right, then he is overspined correct?

I assume he is talking about bareshafting.

This is a fletched shaft. From all the charts Ive seen (except the one above) they all say nock right flight is overspined. Thats what has me confused.

Well if it went from not good to really bad when you added weight,, Go the other way and see what happens.. Try a 125 gr head.

If that works and you are married to the heavy heads  you will need to get stiffer shafts or shorten the ones you have.

Bare shaft is right is light and left heavy, for a RH shooter.

You're underspined, so much so that you're results are indicating the opposite.  The "charts" are only a guide, they're not set in stone, they don't account for bow design, arrow material or personal form differences (I'm talking spine charts).  Drop the point weight and if they are still not flying sweetly, trim the shafts down a little at a time until they do.

I should have said flying tail right when bareshaft shooting and not point of impact, which would indicate a stiff shaft for a right handed shooter.

Are you paper tuning or going by the direction the nock points after it hits the target? I have to agree with the others who said you are weak in spine with that combination. Remember that spine charts assume a 28" arrow from the back of the point to the deepest part of the nock and a 125 grain tip. Since you are 2" over on the length, you have reduced the spine about 10# before you even start. Adding point weight further reduces the spine.

I have a hard time bare shaft tuning woodies (POC is all I have used). I usually just shoot my broadheads and the same weight field points. If they hit in the same place, I go hunting. Anyway, your shafts are too weak. I like mine about an inch longer than my draw (about the same draw as you). Depending on how you like to mount your broadheads, you should be able to shorten them and get them to fly.

Good luck.

Arrows are too weak. Try a 125 gr point.  You will be able to cut them down to 28 1/2 or 29" if you have to.

Thanks for all the advice. I went down to a 29" arrow, 125 gr head, set brace height at 8 7/8" and built out the rest slightly. Arrow flight is great now. Anyone want to trade some 125 gr heads for 200gr Ace express broadheads?