Just what it says and if your using 100 gr. brass incerts how do you like them.

I shoot them with a 75gr. brass insert and a standard aluminum insert in front of that coupled with 125gr tip. I'm Shooting them out of a 46# long bow and they fly with a flat trajectory and get good penetration.

Best arrow made.  I just use the std aluminum insert in everything.  Prefer to use point weight for tuning, nit insert weight.

Steve O I agree they are "the best made"  I've shot them for years out of my wheel bows, and they have withstood some real punishment.  I to usualy use point weight to tune but I want to shoot a 125 head and so a 100 gr insert seems th logical way to go.  How much does the extra insert length stiffen the arrow as far as tunning goes?

Adding point weight weakens the shaft while adding tail weight stiffens the shaft. I shot FMJ cuz the are tough and heavy overall. I use a standard insert but on a 400 shaft, I use a 125 grain point.. 340 shaft a 145 gr point and a 300 shaft I use a 175 grain point

QuoteOriginally posted by Gooserbat:
How much does the extra insert length stiffen the arrow as far as tunning goes?

As already stated, extra weight up front weakens the shaft.

How much?  All I could do is guess.  Depends on the bow and its center shot.  Depends on the length of the arrow.  Depends on where the weight is placed.

That is why I like to add the weight at the furthest point possible, with the head.  I also run full length shafts no matter the size because I draw right around 30".

With my diddling, I'd say you move a quarter to a half a size in spine with an extra 125 g on a full length shaft.  Saying you take a 400 spine to  a 440 spine arrow.

You just have to experiment.

That's all I shoot .  400 spine full length with 75 gr brass insert and 125 grain point . Shooting them out of my Hoyt buffalo 55# recurve.

Been shooting them 4 years.One of the best hunting shafts out there.I'm currently shooting a BW PSA 2 58#@ 28 w/FMJ .400's 100 grain brass insert and a 125 grain Stinger on the business end.Deadly hard hitting combo.

This years bull.53 yds hard quartering shot arrow entered in front of hip and hit opposite front leg bone.



last years bull 30 yard shot slight quartering shot both lungs and a pass thru.

Hmmm...where are you guys buying these? I shoot Axis 500's now, I'm betting these are a bit heavier per inch?

They are deffinately GREAT arrows......But....I don't think they are near as tough as the normal Axis shafts.  I broke multiple FMJ's on animals and can honestly say I never broke a single Axis Nano.  Even had deer fall on them and just rolled them over, pulled em out, and stuck back in quiver.  My buck 2 years ago snapped the FMJ before it had entered 6" into his chest.
I sold mine after breaking 3.
Just my $.03

I use the FMJ Dangerous Game shafts at 17.4gpi they are outstanding if looking for heavy arrow. With 300gr up front they fly perfectly out of my 82# Shawnee.

Cooch your set up is close to mine (60" BW PSA 56@ 30)  I'm thinking a 340 with 100 grai insert and 125 stingers.  If the shaft length turns out around 31" it should weigh 590+.

Gooserbat I'm pulling 29.5 I found the 340 to stiff  the 400 flies like a dart.YMMV but I would lean towards the 400's.For me I,ve found that if I go 1 size down from what the chart say's I get great arrow flight.Maybe it's me or carbon tends to have a very stiff quality to it.

I do externally foot all of my broadhead arrows that has eliminated the mushrooming affect on hard impacts.Chipmunks on stone walls are rough on arrows I don't care what brand or make they are.

I have used them for a couple of years now and really like them. Small diameter with good weight. They fly great out of all my bows. I also like the looks of them.

Anyone have a good suggestion for removing the standard inserts on the FMJ's so a heavier one can be put in?

QuoteOriginally posted by proprod:
Anyone have a good suggestion for removing the standard inserts on the FMJ's so a heavier one can be put in?

Removing an insert from any arrow with carbon can be tricky.

I screw in the longest field point I can find, then slowly heat up the field point with a butane torch, being careful to keep the flame away from the arrow itself. I try to twist the field point using pliers regularly until it spins, then just pull the point/insert out and cool the shaft in water.

Do a careful inspection after the shaft is cool to make sure the carbon has not melted.

You will likely ruin at least one arrow early on, but once you get a feel for it you can usually remove the inserts successfully.

One of things I like about the hit inserts is that they work fine with hot melt...then you can almost treat a FMJ is you would aluminium..just not quite  as much heat

If the inserts are glued in with the "Super Glue" adhesives I can usually get them out with a drill bit.  Remove the nocks.  Than find the longest and heaviest drill bit or piece of steel rod that will fit inside of the shaft.  I then hold the shaft back by the fletching and then give it a quick snap downward so that the drill bit slides forward in the shaft, striking the back end of the insert.  Repeat several times until the glue breaks loose.  Do this over a blanket or similar so that when it comes flying out, it doesn't bounce across the floor and get lost.
Once removed, never use that glue again.  Buy a stick of the low temp Ferr-l-tite.  It is a blue stick.  It melts at a temp low enough to prevent damage to the carbon shaft portion of the arrow.   To remove you simply heat the tip slowly and allow the heat to flow into the insert and it will loosen the Ferr-l-tite.
If the inserts are glued in with the "Super Glue" adhesives I can usually get them out with a drill bit.  Remove the nocks.  Than find the longest and heaviest drill bit or piece of steel rod that will fit inside of the shaft.  I then hold the shaft back by the fletching and then give it a quick snap downward so that the drill bit slides forward in the shaft, striking the back end of the insert.  Repeat several times until the glue breaks loose.  Do this over a blanket or similar so that when it comes flying out, it doesn't bounce across the floor and get lost.
Once removed, never use that glue again.  Buy a stick of the low temp Ferr-l-tite.  It is a blue stick.  It melts at a temp low enough to prevent damage to the carbon shaft portion of the arrow.   To remove you simply heat the tip slowly and allow the heat to flow into the insert and it will loosen the Ferr-l-tite.

What are you all using as extra weight.  Are you putting that behind HIT inserts or using basic inserts.

Gold tip is now making a 24 grain insert that will fit, to replace the HIT.  This insert is like a regular insert, not a HIT.  FMJ's shoot great.  I have to say one of the best arrows Easton has ever made.