I'm going a little nuts with this bareshaft tuning. Here's the facts and you tell me what I'm doing wrong.
RER Vortex longbow, 53#@28", D97 string, shooting 3 under.
60-65# POC cut to 29"bop w/160gr tips=shoots 6" weak or right of target, nock left, tip right.
So, I went to:
55-60# POC cut from 30.5 down at 1/2" increments to 29.5"=each time tip hit closer to bullseye BUT still nock left and tip right!
So, I fletched up some at 29.5" and they hit a little weak with nock a little left.
If I go up in spine it shows weak, if I go down in spine it shows weak.????
The weird thing is the lower spined shafts showed less weak than the heavier shafts..???
I'm getting frustrated. I love making wood. But I can shoot some carbons through this longbow and hammer the bullseye...got me wondering why I am bothering with the wood.

I would think between 70-80# spine would be MUCH better for your setup.  You are seeing a false reading from being TOO underspined would be my guess.  I would try 75-79# and start at 30" and cut 1/2" at a time.  I would bet you end up at about 29-29.5" with a 160 grain point.

Make sure you have your nock pt high enough to start, or else the shaft will be hitting the shelf of the bow and you will not get a consistent flight.  Start out very nock high and work down, then check your L and R again.  3 under you may, depending on tiller of bow, be 5/8-3/4in or more nock high, maybe even close to 7/8, just depends on the bow, but make sure to start out about 1in and work down from there.  Mark

got me wondering why I am bothering with the wood.

Snag, I've mostly shot wood a few aluminum,never carbon. I believe people when they say that they can get them to fly better than wood.
But I like shooting wood. I fletch them with 5.5" helical feathers and shoot them. They fly true and hit hard as long as they are stiff enough.
Got me wondering why archers try to tune them to the extent of aluminum or carbon.
Good Luck

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE wood arrows.
Just having a hard time tuning some to fly right out this longbow.

Mark, the tuning info. I have read says nock low, point high then raise the nock pt. If the nock is high and point low, then lower the nock. I started at 7/8" and have come down to 1/2" before I wasn't getting a nock high, point low reading.

Carbon Caster, I have some 75-79# spined arrows I will try tonight. That will take me from 79# through 55#. You would think I could make something in there work.

Snag, do yourself a favor and quit looing at the nock/shaft angles. Second, that bow being 53# and I assume your draw length is around 28-29"? Take the 55-60# shafts and do what you need to do to tune THEM. You can not compare what you are seeing from one shaft spine group to another without tons of confusion. Sounds like you are trying to do this without changing point weights and it's not likely to happen without some pure luck involved no matter how many "spines" you have....O.L.

Glad to hear from you O.L. I did switch from 160gr. tips to 145gr. tips. I plan on shooting them tonight. So, you're saying to just get the bareshafts to shoot a little weak and don't worry about the nock/shaft angle...? Because I have gotten that to happen with the 160gr tips. I just thought I was suppose to get better flight with the shaft before fletching.