I shoot CE Heritage. I believe the word is that BW bows like sligtly stiff arrows. Even so, I have a range of weight than I can use on heads, from 125 to 150 grains points with 100 grain inserts they fly great.

QuoteOriginally posted by Robertfishes:
I always tune slightly weak, I have the DVD somewhere..prtetty sure Ken also said to tune slightly weak too. Most of us are more likely to short draw than over draw..like in a treestand

Think that what he was saying was that when tuning arrows start with a slightly stiffer spine than most might recommend and you will find that it will tune well for your bow.  I don't recall him saying to leave it stiff as a finished attempt.

Robert nailed what most people I know subscribe to.  That is to say that in hunting scenarios when you are dressed for warmth and in awkward positions you will shortdraw the bow before you overdraw it.  That is why most people I know will bare shaft just a LITTLE weak.

From my experience: Shooting a Black Widow Recurve, you can get by with stiff...


If you are shooting a longbow (epecially one that isn't cut to center) you better not go stiff... It will tell on you every time...

For bows not cut to center, I stay a little weak on the bareshaft, and slightly nock high...

He may say stiff but I say weak I have a black widow and never fails if I go buy what they say my shafts ended up stiff Alum or Carbon. It could be the way a shoot when bare shafting. In my opinion bare shafting is over rated I think arrow maker Kelly Peterson agrees. I can't my bow a lot when normally shootin an seem to have trouble bareshafting that way so I hold verticle and pick them weak and they work for me.

I usually start tuning with a weak shaft and keep cutting the length down until it becomes perfect. This has always worked well for me.