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Files and hones for sharpemimg broadheads

Started by bowhunterportugal, August 30, 2012, 09:22:00 AM

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bowhunterportugal

Hi gang,

I've recently received from 3Rivers a Grobet Broadhead File (8") and a Stubby Jewelstik Diamond Hone Sharpener.

On 3rivers is a video demonstrating how to use them, and on members videos here in TG are also some examples of How to sharpen a broadhead using a file.

I have a Lansky witch I use to sharpen my 2 blades at home, but I feel its important to know how to sharpen a broadhead in the field where I don't have the lansky, obviously!

Also wanted to use them on my 3 blade (RFA Phoenix) bh.

The problem is, I can't get them sharp! I tried to copy the metods used on the videos I found but even so can't do it!

I'm probably doing a lot wrong but then I got thinking: is the file grit to coarse? On 3rivers there is no option on grit. The jewel stick got smooth after a few tries! It seems to have lost the grit!

Anybody uses these specific tools? Any similar experience?

Thanks
Diogo
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

Alexander Traditional

I couldn't sharpen three blade broadheads pushing them on a file or on a stone the way the videos showed either.

Tav

I use exactly the same setup.  I can't get my Woodsman Elites shaving sharp no matter what I do.  I use the file only to get an edge then go to the stick.  The sharpest I can get them is when I push the jewel stick diagonally and from back to front all in one stroke.  When I used perpendicular strokes I got no sharpness either.  I have two other stones that seem to make them more dull, I have a ceramic stick that doesn't do anything for me either.  And I strop them.  I have tried different pressure and can't get it done.  I have GIVEN UP and will use them as sharp as they are now.

bowhunterportugal

Alex,

What do you suppose you're doing wrong?
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

bowhunterportugal

Its interesting. We must be doing something wrong, otherwise we would have them shaving sharp as the videos show!

I've tried also a 2 blade magnus. I can leave it shaving sharp on my lansky but not with the file and jewel stick. Then I see here Tom Mussato sharpening a Simmons simply with a file to hair shaving sharp!! It's frustrating!
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

bowhunterportugal

Let see if some more experienced member can gives us some pointer's on how-to.
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

Charlie Lamb

You've probably seen these...
  File sharpen 2 blade broadhead  
    Three blade sharpening

The trick to using a file is keeping the head steady and keeping a consistent angle.

If you've gone to the trouble to get your broadheads razor sharp at home there should no need to use anything more aggressive than your jewel stick to touch it up.

The RADA sharpener is a pull through type carbide sharpener that will do single blade AND three blade heads. Very inexpensive as well. You can easilly have razor sharp broadheads with just the RADA and a jewel stick.

The jewel sticks will seem smoother with use. That's just normal break in.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

bigbadjon

I can't say for sure what your issue is but I think almost all sharpening issues are from using too much pressure.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

RLA

I too have had some sharpening challenges with the file. What has worked for me is only break out the file to reestablish a straight edge if the head has been shot into the ground or hit something that's really buggered  it up.

On new, or fairly so so sharp heads I use my med, fine, and ultra fine Lansky stones. Just use them without the rod and guide,  I lay the stone flat on the back edge of the Trailmaker 3 blade head and push to the front tip,  turning the head on every pass,  going to lighter pressure and finer stone.

Be sure and use the honing oil,  with a little work a new head will shave with little to no pressure applied. I like to hold my arrow about mid way back up the shaft and be able to just lightly brush the blade down my leg to shave as a test of sharpness,  if hair flies off it's ready.

If you wanted to take a couple of your Lansky  stones in your pack when hunting for touch up,  there very lightweight and small when carried without the box, rods and base.

The Lansky is what I aready had and has worked good for me. And when I say get them scary sharp,  I mean it.

buckeyebowhunter

I could never get my three blades sharp, shaving sharp, or even have a good burr on them. I gave up and went back to using my lansky sharpener for my two blade green razorheads I can get them popping hairs in about 10 minutes. Having 5 of these scary sharp razorheads in my quiver makes me feel comfortable when in the woods. Plus if I needed to re-sharpen them in the field I could just use one of my nicholson files and put a pretty good burr on them, I'm pretty sure that Fred Bear used to do; just use a file on his and leave a burr, without honing them. However, I feel more comfortable honing mine to shaving sharp.

beauleyse

I still can't sharpen 2 blade heads without a razor edge system or Lansky jig...But three blades are rather simple...

I can almost guarantee you are using too much pressure...As was I when I first started trying to sharpen three blades...

The angle on Woodsman,VPAs, and Snuffers is already set so 80% of the hard work is done you just have to remember that the blade may be steel or metal but that edge is very thin and modestly light pressure you can round off the edge and have a dull head... I had to almost think I was being too soft or not really doing anything for the broadhead to get my three blades sharp.

I use a file to true up the angle on the blade one to two strokes with medium to hard pressure then one to two strokes light pressure...

I then use the lansky medium stone (no jig) doing 3 strokes a side before rotaion at a light to medium pressure... Making a stroke that has the stone flush perpendicular to the point of the broadhead making a diaganal stoke towards the point.

I then move to using the fine stone one stroke per side same stroke method as with the medium stone then rotate for 5 to 10 times depending on the blade...

This will get them sharp enough to shave with a little force, to get them hair popping I run them over a leather strop with a stropping compound worked in...
There is more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow and arrow, than hunting with the sureness of the gun. -Fred Bear

bowhunterportugal

Thanks gang,

My issue with the 3 blade is because it's a single bevel.

What grit do you use on files?

I'll give it a try again now with this new info you gave me.

Thanks
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

Apex Predator

It's imperative to get the bevel right before proceding to lighter strokes and finer grits.  Some heads require more work than others.
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

iohkus

bowhunterportugal: Excuse my ignorance, but how can you have a three blade "single bevel" broadhead? Can you show a picture and give the name/mfg. of that head? (curious)
 :dunno:
Hmmmmm. I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but I'm
not sure that what you heard is what I actually meant!

bowhunterportugal

iohkus, no problem.

My 3 blade single bevel is from Red Feather Archery and it's called Phoenix. Very good head.
I don't have a picture but I leave you the site link:

http://www.redfeatherarchery.com/

http://www.redfeatherarchery.com/products/broadhead/item/phoenix

I don´t use it on my trad bows because I'm left handed and my fletching is left, and they only sell them right single bevel. That and the fact that I bought it before I started trad hunting.
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

58WINTERS

Funny I just picked up a new raker file from the local chain saw shop to finish my Grizzly 200's.
Says made in Portugal on the tang.

JamesKerr

I think you are using too much pressure as well. You would be suprised how little pressure is needed with a good quality file and good stone.
James Kerr

Bud B.

My simple sharpening tools.



I do have a diamond steel I use for touchups, but these are my edge establishers.

I have only used it on two blades, single and double bevel.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

bowhunterportugal

QuoteOriginally posted by 58WINTERS:
Funny I just picked up a new raker file from the local chain saw shop to finish my Grizzly 200's.
Says made in Portugal on the tang.
LOL, hope it's good! What are the odds's!!!!!

We normaly do good stuff!
Don't hunt to kill, if I kill is because I've hunted.

BW PSA V 60" 53#@28
Samick Stingray 58" 55#@28
CE Heritage 250, 609 gr total
AD trad, 688 gr total
Simmons Landshark
VPA Terminator
GK Silverflame

BWD

QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
It's imperative to get the bevel right before proceding to lighter strokes and finer grits.  Some heads require more work than others.
Yep.
"If I had tried a little harder and practiced a little more, by now I could have been average"...Me


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