G'day Lads

Been offline for close to a year now and after all of that time, I haven't gotten any wiser so I come to the gang, hat in hand, with yet another basic question:

My draw length is 28"...most of the time. I am using a 60 pound take down re-curve. Aluminum arrows, easton, 2117s. I use Zwickey double bladed broadheads, 150 grain, and for general stump and clump shooting, 125 grain judo points.

When I first bought the bow, I was set up with 31" arrows. Been using them for some time now and they seem to fly straight and hit what I shoot at, but after doing a considerable amount of reading and lurking on this forum, it appears to me that I should consider shortening them to get better performance. It seems to me that most bowhunters keep their arrow lengths to a bare minimum and certainly not 3" above their draw length as what I am currently using.

Question is, how short should I cut the arrow and how would this affect performance and, for that matter FOC? I was thinking of maybe 29.5" While on the topic, can anyone suggest an inexpensive but quality tool for cutting aluminum arrows?

Or should I just leave well enough alone?

Thanks.

Robert

You've already answered your own question.  If they fly well what more do you want?  Afraid that some wanna-be "Traditional Police" is going to issue a warrant that you're shooting too long an arrow?   If it ain't broke, why are you trying to fix it?

iam with mike on this one    if it aint broke dont fix

I agree with the above, but if you do want to cut them just use a small tubing cutter and go slow then deburr the inside of the shaft.
Denny

the most important is how they fly, iff they bareshaft ok and fly good with broadheads you should not cut them ,my arrows are 31 to bop  and my draw is 29"
cody

If you go cutting on them you're likely to need different shafts to keep the spine right.

If they fly straight and hit what you want then I'd leave them alone.  Don't sweat the extra lengh.  I draw 25" and cut my arrows to 27".

Nothing wrong with longer arrows-you don't have to shoot as far!  

I don't see the sense in a setup where you are using longer arrows to make up for too stiff a spine.  I would rather have my arrows 1 inch longer with the correct spine for that configuration.

Having said that, if you have everything working correct now, shortening the arrow will stiffin the spine and that may screw up the flight in which case you might have to get other arrows or add weight to the tip.  Ain't this stuff fun?

The back side of  broadheads are mighty tough on fingers if arrows be too short. You can ask me why I know but I won't tell. Might be the main cause of a short draw syndrome ya reckon? It's kinda like when you learn what your momma was meaning when she said "That's hot, don't touch".

I draw 27.5 to 28 and cut all of my arrows to 29".
This is a personal preference. My 2117 shoot perfectly out of my 60 to 65 pound longbows when cut to 29".  

Robert:
If your arrows are shooting correctly now, they are probably spined correctly for your setup at 31". If your shelf is cut past center you could cut them down and not effect how they shoot, however your 2117@31" spine 65#, that indicates to me your bow is probably cut TO center and cutting them would not be a good thing.
Now as to arrow length. I recommend to my customers to go 1" longer than their draw length, this gives you plenty of room for a broadhead. I see no reason having 2-4" more arrow hanging out than you need.
It seems that shooting extremely long arrow is in vogue these days with bareshafting. You select an arrow shaft that is stiffer than needed and add a pound of point weight until they shoot correctly. I'm from the old school. You check the spine chart and select the proper shaft cut it to length and make your arrows and go shooting.
Bob

I'm with Bob on this one.  It's amazing how an extra couple of un needed inches on an arrow can get in the way, catch on things, etc., especially in the heat of the moment.