if you do decide to checker instead both Brownells and Midway sell checkering files.  I don't work on long guns so the checkering I do is confined to metal but it's not too hard to do.  Just use a piece of scrap wood to get a feel for the file and take your time.

RC, Tell her it's for her "crafts" hobby that you're buying it for her.  

Maybe she'll let you borrow it to cut arrows, too.  PM me and I'll take a pic of my simple cut-off jig for a dremel. And don't forget to explain the use of the flexible shaft option "she" needs. It'll work great to sharpen her garden cutt'n tools and keep the Stihl chain cutt'n good too.      

I've stippled grips on quiet a few bows the past few years going by Tim's HOW TO.

Practice on a piece of scrap wood until you get the hang of it......most importantly.....trust yourself and your abilities. You'll be amazed what you're able to do with a little patience and faith in yourself.

rc, I know you got bigger fish to fry now, but what about a beaver tail grip? I just got that Mamba we talked about and i think I'm gonna get large James to put some beaver on it.

I just customized my first bow with skins, antler burrs and I stippled the grip as well.  I had been finding it a bit "slippery" feeling.  Not great, but it really helped me feel like the bow is locked in place.  Certainly not a work of art, but I am happy with it.

I have a different take on most things archery. Checkering or stippling will never show up on my bows. The last thing in the world I would want for my handle is that it would grip my hand. No surer way to transmit torque to the bow than for your hand to be unable to move on the handle.

A smooth handle force you to balance the pull of the string in the crown of the back of the handle.

JMO

Jim