Never tried one before.Do you have to use a full length shaft or can you use a cut to length shaft.How do you get the whole shaft dipped if cut to size?Looks small to hang on to the end of shaft to get a full coat.Need a little info please.......

I leave mine full lenght with nock taper.  I would dip cut shafts with pliers, I guess.
Ensure you have a device to hang them to dry and let excess run off. My setup uses old wooden style clothes clamp pins with a tray under them.  It is awkward for me, but it works

i cut my shafts to lenght taper both ends then i dip. i hold the shaft from the point end, and dip nock end to point end. the point taper is longer and i dip just past where the tapeer starts. then i hang to dry from the point end just like Roadkill does. theres a million diffrent ways to dip. i enjoy dipping arrows. good luck

Pretty much the same as above. I put a wooden clothes pin on the point taper and dip and let it run off the mock end.
I stretch a sting tight and hang the nose of the cloths pin on the string with newspaper for the drips.

The easiest way I have found is to cut to length, taper both ends, apply stain/paint.  Let dry a minimum of 24 hrs.  Then i use the small binder clips.  I clip them on the point end up, and dip nock down.  I then hang them over a wallpaper tray (my dip tray) to dry.  after another 24hrs, I steelwool the shaft, then glue on the nock.  This is also the step where I apply my cresting.  Once again, let dry 24 hrs, then I dip the arrow 2 more times (once again waiting 24 hrs between dips with steel wool between coats) with the nock up (binder clip on the nock now).  This way your whole arrow is completely finished and sealed so that you do not need to cut and taper allowing the air/moisture to enter your finished arrow.  

All that is left to do is glue on some feathers and some type of point, and go out and have some fun.

You can also screw on the tip taper a wire splicing nut. Then you can dip them full length and have a good firm connection to grip and hang from. The nut will cut a small thread on the end of the taper providing a good grip on hot melt cement or epoxy too.  I have used the yellow ones and they are about the right diameter. I am going to a large dip tube to do multiple arrows now.

Just making sure... you know there are short dip tubes to do just a cap dip and longer tubes for the full shaft?

Thanks for the info guys.........Tim

take a stick pin (the ones with a head on them)like women use for sewing, poke it in the end of your arrow, bend the other end into a hook and use it to hang your arrows after dipping onto a stretched wire. You can easily dip the full length arrow. My teacher showed me this years ago when I started out.  Scott

QuoteOriginally posted by camodadd:
take a stick pin (the ones with a head on them)like women use for sewing, poke it in the end of your arrow, bend the other end into a hook and use it to hang your arrows after dipping onto a stretched wire. You can easily dip the full length arrow. My teacher showed me this years ago when I started out.  Scott

This is how the guy who taught me how to build arrows dipped his that had self nocks.  I use the same method with self nocks too.

I usually dip the entire shaft, hang on wire with clothes pin.  Then I cut to length and taper.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjK-Mw7EK-Q

Make'em as long or as short as you like. Full dip or cap dipping.