I have owned quite a few recurves but never a stic tip version so I have some questions of you guys that either build them or have experience with them.
1/ Are static tip recurves more prone to limb twist?
2/ If so would carbon or uniweft in the limbs help not for performance but for stability & reliability.
3/ If so what sort of carbon layup?

No answers?

IMO...it has more to do with individual designs.  I have had a few different statics and there was only one that seemed like the limbs were more 'flimsy' at the tips than the others.  The other statics seemed every but as solid as a regular recurve tip.  If anything I would say statics are less prone than others.

No other input?

Yes they are more prone to limb twist. Mostly from stringing/unstringing unproperly. Some of the tips are flimsier looking,and thinner than that of standard curves. But that is only because of the fact that statics do not have the same string end loading area's as standard curves do to the fact they use the "curl" of the limb tip to pull the limb back,then only slightly "uncurl" at the end of the draw cycle.
Carbon/uniweft will add torsional stability and faster limb rebound after release thus more arrow speed from what I understand,but I am no bowyer. I would talk to a good static bowyer for 100% answers on specific's. I can tell you they are fun to shoot,and tricky to string/unstring sometimes. They look pretty cool to.  

I will do a video of stringing and unstringing Static Tipped bows.

I have an 82# Ballistick, a Pouland, and 2 Saluki's.

The issue is not the stringing. The real scary part is unstringing. That is when they want to twist. But, I have a simple technique that works every time.

Matt

Looking forward to it!

Thanks Matt. That was the ONE reason I got rid of my Saluki years ago. Seemed like it nearly turned inside out, with 1 1/2 twists. The Russian judge gave it a 9.5!

I have an older Bear static recurve but not sure if its safe to shoot. Don't see any obvious cracks etc.

I string my Dryad limbs with a Selway stringer and don't have a problem.

I just need time to make the video. Maybe, tonight.

Matt

I love my static tip dryads never had a twist problem and they are extremely quiet.

Any Bowyers have any input?

Here is my video of stringing a Static Tipped bow.

Matt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSls7-Mk1_w

Thanks for that Matt I believe it is better to be cautious when stringing these guys.

Thanks Matt!  

When I bought my sovereign ballistik, John Fazio recomended the selway cup and block stringer.

I agree with others that the static tip recurves are more subject to limb twist that normal recurves. I appreciate the video Matt put together, and I will follow his method, as I also use a Webster stringer. One thing Matt touched on but did not discuss much is the sting follow on the strung bow. If you get the string tension uneven on the limb tip, the limb can start twisting as you draw the bow. Make sure when you start drawing that the string is following down the middle of the limb. If it isn't, then put the bow stringer back on, take some tension off the string, and adjust the string at the tip to center loop so there is even tension on either side of the loop. I only had one occasion when my static tip bow limb was twisting, and the uneven string loop tension was the problem.

Thanks Matt!

Allan

Twisting is because of the leverage of the static tip and combine that with even a slightly horizontaly unstable limb and you are subject to twisting or even flipping. I know. Been there , done that a long time back. First you have to create a very strong horizontal stability in the outer limb. There are several different ways to accomplish that. I'm not going to teach my competition how to build a stable static limb but with just a little thought they will eventually get it. Some already have this and those bows will string. I finally figured it out when the good Lord brought to my attention that some bows of a particular design I was making were a bit less than desireable and others of the same design were so strong horizontaly that you could barely torque the limb at all.
I changed my design and not the limbs are stable straight through the range of weights and lengths I make them in and no performance lost in any way.


The main added attraction was that with confidence and ease the bows can be strung with a tip to tip stringer and never worry about twisting or flipping the llmb.

God bless you all, Steve

Matt, I watched you string that static tip and noticed you were very careful to have everything aligned properly when you started lifting. I got just a bit too anxious to string mine up when I got it home and saw the top limb tip start to twist a bit. I was using a Webster dual cup stringer. I backed off, got everything straight and it went fine. Since then, I've been more comfortable with the cup and block type.

I may put a bit more strain on the upper limb that way, but I just feel more comfortable that I'm not pulling on the very tip and if it should twist just a bit under heavy tension, I could do a lot of damage. I know that is where the tension is when you draw, but then it's more straight back.

Thanks for posting the video and I also appreciate the advice to make sure the string is centered on the nock before drawing. I'll double check that every time.

A bit more susceptible to damage, perhaps, but I sure like the "roll over" at full draw and the apparent extra speed I get out of it.

Maybe I'm a closet compound guy and afraid to admit it